Head change, truck runs like sh*t

a viper starter motor????
 
bigike said:
http://www.rollingthunderz.com/viper_phase1.shtml#rocker

If it looks like this you need to RUN the valves on this engine. Even if you only removed the heads to change the gasket and put them back on you still have to RUN the valves.

The rocker assy's dont look like this. Just one bolt in the middle of the stock rocker screwing it into the pedestal. The springs would compress differently as I slowly torqed the bolts depending on the cylinder I was working on. What do you mean "run" the valves?

I should have known better than to do this. I thought it was as easy as following the instructions in the service manual.
 
man ya done good:rock: :rock: :rock:
just need to figure out this one small prob. then she be good.
get a holt of Sean & ya'll can get it figured out for sure:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:
 
'preciate the support. I'm reading these guys posts about lashing, running valves, and adjusting things and getting concerned. I did the swap according to the manual to a "T" and it mentioned nothing about this stuff. From what I can see and tested, everything looks normal so I'm hoping tune. Gonna take it for a couple mile drive and do the water on the header test to see if I have a dead cylinder. My Diablo Predator hand held used to show data as the motor was running. Wish my SCT did that so I could monitor it.
 
Running the valves is a term used when adjusting the valves on a adjustable engine. Stock ours are not adjustable so you ought to be good.

Did you do a compression test yet and or make sure every cylinder is firing?
 
a dead hole would have a stumble on acceleration & rough idle
 
bigike said:
Running the valves is a term used when adjusting the valves on a adjustable engine. Stock ours are not adjustable so you ought to be good.

Did you do a compression test yet and or make sure every cylinder is firing?

Dont have a way to do a compression test. How do you test cylinder firing? I know there's a way with a screwdriver and unplugging the spark plug boot. Did the water test and it hissed and evaporated immediately on the passenger side. On the driver side, the drop of water actually sat on 5,7,9 header. After a couple of mins, sat on 1 and 3 too. This is why I want to do the screwdriver test, to be sure. Just kicked a system rich code (0175) too.
 
Your not firing on all cylinders. Do you have infared temp gun. It does the same thing as the water but it would give you a actual temp.

You can buy a compression tester at any auto shop for 15 dollars. You unscrew a spark plug, install the tester, disable the ignition and rotate the engine for 5 seconds and record the reading.

Recheck the valves on the drivers side.

A screwdriver in the wire will show you the coil is firing that cylinder. A better way is to buy a sparkplug tester.
 
Does your wiring look like this?
 

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Yes sir, it does. Just pulled a few spark plugs. I'll take a photo in a min. I can tell you, #1, #3, and #5 are BLACK with dry soot. Going back out to pull them all.

Here's the photo of the plugs:
100_1245.jpg
 
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spdrcrj said:
Yes sir, it does. Just pulled a few spark plugs. I'll take a photo in a min. I can tell you, #1, #3, and #5 are BLACK with dry soot. Going back out to pull them all.

Here's the photo of the plugs:
100_1245.jpg


check for a pinched injector wire somewhere bo, and are you using the vec or STS, looks like one complete side is jsut flooding.

Injectors look stuck wide open

smell the oil dipstick see if it smells like fuel

also you can go to autozone and get a plug tester to test to see if its firing.

I dont think you have a compression problem

Think of it this way Jim,, dont be pissed, you are learning, and learning the best way my man:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
Stinker said:
check for a pinched injector wire somewhere bo, and are you using the vec or STS, looks like one complete side is jsut flooding.

Injectors look stuck wide open

smell the oil dipstick see if it smells like fuel

also you can go to autozone and get a plug tester to test to see if its firing.

I dont think you have a compression problem

Think of it this way Jim,, dont be pissed, you are learning, and learning the best way my man:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:

Like Stinker said... good advice there...

Things don't always go great even when people are very familiar with the work they are doing so no point in beating yourself up. When you find the problem (and you will) all will be good again. It is just a mechanical thing so be methodical and patient. As suggested, make sure you don't have a pinched cable between the head and intake, which is why I suggested 2 people are watching when you lower that thing back on.
Your driver's side is getting way too much fuel and/or has an ignition failure of some kind.
I have seen heads come out of machine shops that had guides installed on one whole side that were improperly machined and the valves opened and stayed open. I don't think it is the case here but only mentioned it as a point of reference because the heads are what you changed.

Good luck

Ron
 
No pinched wires Stink. I took Ron's advice and I lowered the intake while my partner watched for anything that could get in the way of a good seal. I currently have the valve cover off, everything looks good. Gonna take come pushrods out to make sure they are not bent at all and re-torque the rockers. After that, will run to autozone to get the plug tester like you guys suggest. Think the motor is ok to run on "limp mode"? I have no other vehicles.

Just removed a pushrod from each of the drivers cylinders, all are good. Re-torqed rockers and putting the valve cover back on. Gonna re-install all plugs and test 1,3,and 5 for spark.

Stink, I'm running a SCT but it would not run on even Roe's low tune. The truck is now on the stock tune.
 
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spdrcrj said:
No pinched wires Stink. I took Ron's advice and I lowered the intake while my partner watched for anything that could get in the way of a good seal. I currently have the valve cover off, everything looks good. Gonna take come pushrods out to make sure they are not bent at all and re-torque the rockers. After that, will run to autozone to get the plug tester like you guys suggest. Think the motor is ok to run on "limp mode"? I have no other vehicles.


I wouldnt, if the injectors are open you would wash the cylinders and bearings down with fuel . has ya buddy got a ride?

if you cant go anywhere, take a 6-8 inch screw driver:D (oh crap Jim is really gonna love this)
stick the end of the driver in the plug boot, then hold it about a 1/8th inch from a ground, have your friend turn over the engine, you should here the "pop" or see the arc of the wire.

oh , guess you should wear gloves tooLOLOLOL:p


Think about it like you would your job Jim, I have spoken with you many times, and you really impress me on how you do things:rock:
So step back , go over every step , one by one remembering what you did, double check and triple check slowly.

go over al th wires once again, you could miss something even on the third look;)

If all this seems to check out , like ronnie says, you may need to get a way to the store, get a compression checker and check for leakdown, jsut dont see that tho, I really think you are jsut excited, and pissed, and are overlooking something;)
Geez Ronnie, uh sounds like we have done this huh?:D
 
Tony, another friend of mine told me about a method using another spark plug. Plugging it into the boot and grounding the threads on the block and look for the spark. Could this work?
 
just a wild ass suggestion. have ya checked ALL the fuses????:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:
yep on the usein the spark plug as a test:rock:
 
Stinker said:
Geez Ronnie, uh sounds like we have done this huh?:D

Yup, maybe just a time or 2(000) :D

Off to the dyno in a couple of hours to see if we can blow up/baseline a new GT500 Shelby. ;) Then install parts for another 120 wheel. I thought we were supposed to "rest" on a long weekend. Yeah, right.

And on a pure entertaining level...
Following a buddies new Ford GT40 in his Viper and he nailed it. The Viper hung in for a surprisingly long time then the '40 pulled away and he said he hit 200 m.p.h. I didn't know they would go that fast but the Viper started to look pretty lame with the '40 WAY in the lead. I'm trying to talk him into Strikers for his Viper to help it out...

Thanks to all for helpin' Jim out.. He'll figure it out...

Ron
 
rottenronnie said:
Yup, maybe just a time or 2(000) :D

Off to the dyno in a couple of hours to see if we can blow up/baseline a new GT500 Shelby. ;) Then install parts for another 120 wheel. I thought we were supposed to "rest" on a long weekend. Yeah, right.

And on a pure entertaining level...
Following a buddies new Ford GT40 in his Viper and he nailed it. The Viper hung in for a surprisingly long time then the '40 pulled away and he said he hit 200 m.p.h. I didn't know they would go that fast but the Viper started to look pretty lame with the '40 WAY in the lead. I'm trying to talk him into Strikers for his Viper to help it out...

Thanks to all for helpin' Jim out.. He'll figure it out...

Ron


Someone turned off the factory speed limiter.
 
That happened here before, and the SCT had to be returned to stock, a stock program loaded, then reloaded a new 93 program. Passenger bank was not firing the injectors.
 
from the spark plugs looks to be gettin fuel or not enough fuel??? could it have affected the coils some how???? the tune that is from the SCT that is?
 

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