Head change, truck runs like sh*t

if you only changed the heads it probably is a tune. that would be your best bet, it is needed anyway so start there :)
 
Think maybe an intake leak? Looked at it and it looks good. Went on nice and smooth. I'm inclined to agree with tune issue since it got better when I changed it.
 
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Spray starter fluid anywhere you think there may be a vacuum leak, if there is a leak, the engine will idle up. Good luck.
 
ZCx said:
time the engine????? thought it was ECM controlled
set valves???? Hydraulic roller lifters.



It possible to set hydraulic lifters to tight. If you do it will keep the valves from fulling closing. this will causing misfires, loss of power, even back fires. had it happen to me on my 454 in the Monte
 
STARTER FLUID OR WD40!

Hey also spray water on the header right near the exhaust port. Make sure the water evaporates fast off every cylinder! You may have a dead hole.

I just don't see a tune affecting performance like that.
 
FerrariTruck said:
It possible to set hydraulic lifters to tight. If you do it will keep the valves from fulling closing. this will causing misfires, loss of power, even back fires. had it happen to me on my 454 in the Monte
:withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid: :withstupid:

Is it tighten with one hand spin the rod with the other lightly, when it stops spinning thighten 1 1/4 turn or 1/4 turn?

You'd also see that in a compression test or the water test on the header
 
I didnt touch the lifters at all except to put the pushrods on them. Just did a wd40 test on the intake with no change in idle. Kind of good news, no intake leak.
 
You definately need to get your valves adjusted before you bend several pushrods or even worse, bend a few valves.
 
Are these shaft mounted our regular like a small block chevy????????? If you installed the rockers it had with out adjusting them this could get ugly.

Run the valves before you run the engine one more time. Then when thats good, do a compression check.
 
FerrariTruck said:
It possible to set hydraulic lifters to tight. If you do it will keep the valves from fulling closing. this will causing misfires, loss of power, even back fires. had it happen to me on my 454 in the Monte

the rocker arm assemblies are on a shaft. 2 rockers per shaft.
the only thing the service manual says about install is......
CAUTION: THE ROCKER ARM PEDESTAL BOLTS SHOULD BE TORQUED DOWN SLOWLY. ALLOW 20 MINS. TAPPET BLEED DOWN TIME AFTER
INSTALLATION OF ROCKER ARM BOLTS BEFORE ENGINE OPERATION.

sort of a slap in the face comparin our engines to a chevy motor
454 in a Monte? talkin 30 years back?????
 
spdrcrj said:
Hopefully someone can chime in on this. Just did a head change to some street ported heads. Got done, truck idles great. But running, it diesels when I step on the gas, does not want to go faster than 35 mph (after 3 miles it did go up to 50mph), kicked a P0135 code, no throttle response, when I let off the gas the rpms hang for a second before coming down, it starts up slower and shuts down slower (it started immediately and shut down immediatly before), and the truck just runs badly. I looked and it appears as though all electrical connections and hoses are connected. Truck just wont run. I'm using Roe's 91 octane tune as per Sean's recommendations. Any insight would be appreciated. Also, I have this question pending in another thread but even cylinders on passenger side, odd on drivers side, correct?

TIA,
Jim

Jim first thing you need to do before running it ever again is pull the valve covers and recheck your valve lash, please check this first;)
 
might be hard to do without any adjustin screws.
assumin he reused the stock rockers
 
Ok so there are no adjusting screws and the push rod pocket?

Ive never seen them

The only pictures I've found are td and jessel and they are both adjustable
 
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ZCx said:
the rocker arm assemblies are on a shaft. 2 rockers per shaft.
the only thing the service manual says about install is......
CAUTION: THE ROCKER ARM PEDESTAL BOLTS SHOULD BE TORQUED DOWN SLOWLY. ALLOW 20 MINS. TAPPET BLEED DOWN TIME AFTER
INSTALLATION OF ROCKER ARM BOLTS BEFORE ENGINE OPERATION.

sort of a slap in the face comparin our engines to a chevy motor
454 in a Monte? talkin 30 years back?????

You think so? My BB makes about 500 hp with a simple cam change on stamped steel rockers and lunati lifters, Hell i think I get off on the fact that built this on less than 3k... But really I advise him to check the lifters because I built a few engines. A bunch 350 and 454 chevys and few M3 and M5 motors... Lifters are lifters regardless of what they are...And the viper engine is nuthin special...sorry
 
ZCx said:
might be hard to do without any adjustin screws.
assumin he reused the stock rockers


this is true, I jsut worry he has something wrong in the valve combination;) somehow , somewhere, something is aawwwrrooongg:(
 
FerrariTruck said:
You think so? My BB makes about 500 hp with a simple cam change on stamped steel rockers and lunati lifters, Hell i think I get off on the fact that built this on less than 3k... But really I advise him to check the lifters because I built a few engines. A bunch 350 and 454 chevys and few M3 and M5 motors... Lifters are lifters regardless of what they are...And the viper engine is nuthin special...sorry

these engines run a Rhodes style lifter. a bit different from a "reg" lifter.
part of why they can be noisey at idle
 
Imma keep quiet now because i realized I havent torn A "viper motor" down yet so I'll let a more exp. fellow advise
 

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