JMB Procharger Install

[theCHASE]

Hey folks - starting a thread to help any DIYer with their Procharger install. My specific application is the JMB setup. I will get some pics posted as I complete the install and answer any questions you all may have!

 

[theCHASE]

To kick things off, start removing stock/aftermarket air intake and cooling system components (includes the AC condenser that mounts to frontside of radiator). I have a dual electric fan setup mounted to the back of the radiator so I didn’t have to mess with the stock fan/shroud. Removal is all pretty straight forward but I did run into an issue when removing the radiator. The petcock at the bottom/driver side of the radiator was clogged, so I couldn’t drain it the old fashioned way. I ended up pulling the lower radiator hose and letting the coolant drain from there. Be ready, these engines hold quite a bit of coolant - have a good size pan or two (better yet a 5 gal bucket) ready if you need to pull this hose. Below are a few before and after pics of getting things removed and ready for the SC bracket mounting.

 

[theCHASE]

I also installed 3 more gauges to the A-pillar (boost, fuel pressure and wideband/AFR). There are enough YouTube videos out there to refer to, so I won’t go into a ton of detail on these (unless anyone has questions), but a few pics below on how I got these installed.

You’ll need an add-a-fuse to tap into a fuse port that provides power when you turn the key. I tapped into the cig lighter. I also used a fuse block that I mounted up underneath the steering wheel so that not all gauges were running on a single 5A fuse.

The fuel pressure sensor can tap right into the fuel rail on the passenger side - i had to buy an adaptor that fit on the schrader valve, then some other adaptors to get from the 1/8” NPT threading to the AN fittings I wanted to use.

The vacuum line for the boost gauge can T into the vacuum line coming off the master cylinder. I bought some 3mm vacuum hose to replace the hose the gauge came with (mainly for color). You may have to buy some vacuum hose fittings to tap into the vacuum line, but these are cheap on amazon.

I also bought a 3D printed AEM dual sensor mount to secure the sensors near the master cylinder. This will keep the vibration and heat exposure low and prolong the life of these sensors.

The wideband came with a bung that requires you to weld it in. I don’t have a welder, so I bought a glowshift clamp with a bung already welded in. Essentially all you have to do is drill a 13/16” hole at least 18” away from your exhaust port. I have long tube headers, so I drilled my hole at the collector of the headers. Be ready to exhaust your forearms when drilling this hole. I had to use a number of step bits to make good progress. I also cannot stress the importance of using the correct drill bit - make sure it is a COBALT (or similar hardened material) drill bit made for drilling through stainless/steel applications.

I kept the stock oil temp gauge mainly for budget reasons (the AEM gauge is like $200) and I also wanted the ease of using the stock plug/harness. Dodge doesn’t leave you a lot of wire excess to work with on this plug to splice in a new plug. Additionally the location of this plug makes space tight (between dash and windshield, there is only 2-3” of wire to play with).

Here for any questions on this install.

 

[theCHASE]

I also installed 3 more gauges to the A-pillar (boost, fuel pressure and wideband/AFR). There are enough YouTube videos out there to refer to, so I won’t go into a ton of detail on these (unless anyone has questions), but a few pics below on how I got these installed.

You’ll need an add-a-fuse to tap into a fuse port that provides power when you turn the key. I tapped into the cig lighter. I also used a fuse block that I mounted up underneath the steering wheel so that not all gauges were running on a single 5A fuse.

The fuel pressure sensor can tap right into the fuel rail on the passenger side - i had to buy an adaptor that fit on the schrader valve, then some other adaptors to get from the 1/8” NPT threading to the AN fittings I wanted to use.

The vacuum line for the boost gauge can T into the vacuum line coming off the master cylinder. I bought some 3mm vacuum hose to replace the hose the gauge came with (mainly for color). You may have to buy some vacuum hose fittings to tap into the vacuum line, but these are cheap on amazon.

I also bought a 3D printed AEM dual sensor mount to secure the sensors near the master cylinder. This will keep the vibration and heat exposure low and prolong the life of these sensors.

The wideband came with a bung that requires you to weld it in. I don’t have a welder, so I bought a glowshift clamp with a bung already welded in. Essentially all you have to do is drill a 13/16” hole at least 18” away from your exhaust port. I have long tube headers, so I drilled my hole at the collector of the headers. Be ready to exhaust your forearms when drilling this hole. I had to use a number of step bits to make good progress. I also cannot stress the importance of using the correct drill bit - make sure it is a COBALT (or similar hardened material) drill bit made for drilling through stainless/steel applications.

I kept the stock trans oil temp gauge mainly for budget reasons (the AEM gauge is like $200) and I also wanted the ease of using the stock plug/harness. Dodge doesn’t leave you a lot of wire excess to work with on this plug to splice in a new plug. Additionally the location of this plug makes space tight (between dash and windshield, there is only 2-3” of wire to play with).

Here for any questions on this install.

Here is the dual sensor mount and vacuum hose pics:

 

[Wifey]

Great info! I'm sure this will help many!

 

[theCHASE]

Once you get the intake and cooling components out, you should have plenty of room to start your crank work. The JMB setup comes with an ATI balancer, a new crank pulley and a new machined crank hub. Getting the stock dampener and crank pulley off isn’t too hard, straight forward removal. I rented a harmonic balancer remover from autozone to get everything off with no issues. Install is a different story…

The crank bolt is 3/4” and the installers you can rent from autozone/oreilys do not have a 3/4” bolt to thread into the crank. I had to order one from summit - it’s specific for Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge and has the 3/4” adapter. The ATI balancer does have the timing degree markings on it - however I don’t have a pointer/arrow installed on the block, so I didn’t worry too much about finding TDC to mount the balancer. Make sure you throw a little engine oil on the crank snout and dampener when you go to push it on. It will take some elbow grease to get fully seated, but tighten it down until it’s fully seated on the crank.

Once you get the dampener on, you will need to install your crank pin kit. The crank pins keep the dampener from spinning on the crank with the added power. JMB has a dual pin kit with a jig and drill bit to use. It is a little scary drilling your crank and dampener hub, but mark your depth on the bit (I used masking tape), keep the drill straight and let the bit to the work. Drill about 1/8” deeper than the length of pin to make sure it seats all the way and does not protrude from the crank adaptor at all. If the pin isn’t flush or slightly recessed, your crank pulley will not mount flat against the crank adapter on the balancer. All-in-all took about 15-20 mins to drill these holes with some forearm breaks. Don’t rush it and make sure to have some brake cleaner and WD40 (or cutting oil) on hand. I cleaned the bit and the hole out about every 1/2” of drilling. The only issue I ran into here was the crank hub hardware would not fit into the jig (the bolts were a little too thick). I used some smaller bolts and slid them through the jig into the crank adapter on the balancer which held the jig in place for the most part. I did have to hold the jig with my hand from time to time while drilling to make sure it wasn’t backing off or angling.

Before installing the pins make sure to spray the holes out with brake cleaner and then shoot some compressed air in there to remove any debris. The first pin went in nice and easy, the second needed a few taps with a deadblow hammer to fully seat. Make sure before you install your crank pins that you will not need to pull your dampener off anytime soon. Getting these holes to realign seems like it could be a real pain.

Once the pin kit is installed, you can install your crank pulley and crank hub (both provided in the JMB kit). Don’t worry about the tap in the crank hub in the pic below - I will get to those details when I get to the SC pulley install.

 

[theCHASE]

Before you start installing the SC mounting brackets (machined by JMB), it’s a good idea to replace any engine components that may need replacing (ie…hoses, steering box, alternator, etc…). Once you get the brackets installed and SC mounted, getting to many of these components requires full removal of the SC and brackets (especially for anything to the center/left side of the block).

I replaced my power steering box (I have had a few issues with pressure hoses, and the rack/pinion). I had a spare steering box from a previous order from rockauto, so I went ahead and replaced that. I HIGHLY recommend replacing your alternator as well. I didn’t want to take any chances with it going bad and having to remove everything just to get that replaced. My truck has about 75K miles on it - so I went ahead and upgraded the alternator to a 240amp (overkill I know, but I have a large stereo system in the truck that would occasionally dim the lights when bass hit). If you replace your alternator, make sure the pulley size is the same as the stock alternator or you will have belt fitment issues when you put the stock serp belt back on. If you do get a smaller/larger pulley on the alternator, just be aware you will need a new serp belt.

I bought the mechman 240amp alternator from Summit Racing which was only rated for 5000RPMs (didn’t know this until I unboxed it). After a call to mechman they instructed me to use the stock pulley (the mechman pulley was tad bit smaller). If you are going to change the pulley on the alternator, make sure you have a high enough engine idle for the alternator to charge. I have a tune from Torrie currently and my idle is around 800-900RPM. If you are idling at around 550RPM, you will need to make sure the alternator you buy is rated for the idle speed and RPMs you want to max out at. Hopefully all that makes sense…

JMB bracket mounting up next .

 

[theCHASE]

When you order the kit from JMB, they supply install instructions. The instructions are a tad outdated and specific for a COG belt setup. They will get you 90% of the way there, but there were a few puzzle pieces I had to figure out. I am in the process of helping JMB update their instructions for a serp drive setup and a few tweaks they have made to the install over the years.

(I should mention that I am in no way affiliated to JMB. I am just one DIYer sharing my install of their product. I will say Mike over at JMB has been awesome in answering questions and clarifications needed during this process.)

There are 2 main brackets machined that hold the SC. Use the instructions provided by JMB for hardware placement and prep - happy to help answer any questions if you run into any snags.

Below are a few pics of the first bracket mounting to the timing cover and alternator. Take note that the lower alternator bolt is only slid into place for alignment and holding the alternator in its correct position. Do not place the nut on the back of this bolt until the second bracket is installed. You will need to remove it before placing the second bracket on it and place a spacer/spool on the bolt between the 2 mounting brackets (more to come on this).

Make sure you use anti-seize on all the fasteners into the block. The only place I used loctite (blue loctite, use sparingly - no need to overcoat) was on the 3/4” crank bolt.

 

[theCHASE]

Once you get the 1st bracket installed you can get your SC crank pulley mounted to the crank hub. In an earlier post/picture you can see a tap sticking out of one of the pulley mounting holes (also included below). The supplied hardware was 1.5” in length and when I threaded these bolts into the hub they bottomed out leaving about 1/8” - 1/4” of threads showing. I didn’t want to ram them home and strip the end of the bolt threads out or risk breaking the head off the bolt so I tapped the holes a little deeper.

About half way through tapping deeper holes into the crank hub my T handle stripped out. Rather than continue on with that strategy I went to my local Ace hardware and bought 1.25” bolts which solved the issue.

Make sure the appropriate spacers and washers are used when putting on the SC pulley. All straight forward in the instructions JMB provided. 6 bolts will get the SC pulley mounted.

 

[theCHASE]

Before you get to mounting the second bracket, which is what actually supports the SC, pay close attention to where the breather is sitting. The breather is the small air filter coming off the intake manifold just beside/below the throttle body. Installing this is done in an earlier step and its very simple with the supplied tubing and clamps in the kit, however I had to take this thing off probably 5 times because it was protruding too far and hitting the second bracket when I tried to get it installed.

The breather needs to be short, really really short. The tube I used was no more than 2-3” long. The head of the breather CANNOT stick out further than the black spools placed on the threaded studs after you install the first bracket. If it does, you need to go shorter with your tubing. It should really sit right into the carved out slot on the first bracket. See pics below.

The second bracket is pretty straightforward. I won’t do a whole lot of explaining here, the pictures do it justice on how it mounts and where the hardware goes. Keep in mind these are not step-by-step instructions on the install, these are only meant to help with the instructions that JMB provides and to give a few more pictures than you will find in the instructions.

Once the 2nd bracket is in, you can finally mount the SC. You will have to clock the SC compressor housing to align with the intercooler tubing. So once you get it set in and bolted up (loosely), just know you will have to pull it back off to tighten the compressor housing bolts based on where you are routing your intercooler tubing. You will notice in the pics that I only have 1-2 bolts snug to hold the SC in place.

 

[rottenronnie]

Great information..
Thanks for posting!

 

[theCHASE]

Fuel system components will also need to be upgraded. The JMB kit comes with 10 new injectors and a new fuel pump.

The fuel injector install is pretty basic stuff for any weekend gear head. Start by disconnecting the electrical plugs to each injector. There are 3 bolts that hold each fuel rail into place. Once you remove those 3 bolts you can wiggle/pull the injectors up and out of the heads. Make sure you spray some compressed air or even some brake cleaner around the area to ensure no debris make it into the heads once you lift the injectors out. I had some small pieces of wadded up paper towel that I quickly placed over the holes to ensure no dirt or debris got in. The fuel rails won’t come completely out (as in they won’t fully detach from the truck), there are obviously fuel lines connected in the back. Once you get the rail wiggled loose and the injectors up out of the heads you will need to take a small flat head screwdriver and pry (gently) the injector clamps loose. Again, this is pretty straightforward, just make sure you aren’t using too much muscle or force to break the clamps free. You should be able to spread one side open and then push them off the backside of the injector (push toward the intake manifold).

To install the new injectors get a small cap/bowl of gasoline and dip the injector (seal) into the gas. This provides a little lubrication for shoving it back into the fuel rail. Once the injector is seated into the fuel rail you can put your clamp back on. It takes a little bit of finger/grip strip to press these things on, but once you get the hang of it they go very fast. There are grooves on the sides of the injectors that the clamp fits around. All you need to do is place the clamp in these grooves, ensure the backside of the clamp lines up with the fuel rail (it is square on the backside) and then push those bad boys into place. You will know when they seat correctly - it will snap into place and you can visibly see them seated appropriately on the injector/rail.

Get all 5 injectors done per fuel rail and then press them back into the heads as much as you can. Put your 3 bolts back in and fully tighten.

JMB provides a new fuel pump (the fuel filter and fuel pump are all-in-one). I decided to buy a new fuel pump assembly basket which is separate from the pump. No need to do this for every application, but I wanted to replace it while the tank was dropped and out of the truck.

The new fuel pump does take some wiring, but it is pretty simple. On my fuel pump assembly basket there were 3 wires that needed to match to the 2 (red and black) on the fuel pump. It wasn’t too difficult to figure out which wires were power and ground on the new assembly (there was 1 red wire and 2 brown wires connected in the same plug. Connect power to power and ground to ground - I also used some heat shrink to protect the connections.

Dropping the fuel tank is a pain. Unless your gas tank is on E you are probably going to need an extra set of hands for this. There are some good YouTube videos for 2004-2006 dodge ram fuel tank removal and the process is the same for the SRT10s. When dropping mine, I broke the fuel vapor hose off by accident - you can see the snapped off plastic piece in one of the pics below. $125 bucks for that part, so be careful before you fully lower the tank. It’s a pain to get the connection points undone from the top of the tank as there is not a whole lot of space and you are fighting the drive shaft and other things in the way. There are 5 things to disconnect, an electrical plug and 4 hoses (one being the filler hose). The electrical plug has a red tab that must be opened (slide it sideways towards the driver side of the truck) and then the depress the connector and pull out. The hose lines are standard C-type clamps that you can pop out with a small flathead (see pics).

Once you get the tank dropped the assembly swap is pretty simple. Twist the retaining ring on top of the fuel pump assembly from the top of the tank until the tabs align and it will spring up (it’s literally spring loaded). Pull/wiggle out the old basket and drop in the new one. Be sure your floater is clear of obstruction and make sure you align the “locator” tab on the fuel assembly basket to the marking on the top of the fuel tank. This will ensure all the plugs/hoses fit back on the same way they came off.

Don’t have too many pics here, but there are some good YouTube videos on how to accomplish these steps. Let me know if you have any questions with regards to the wiring piece.

 

[theCHASE]

Great information..
Thanks for posting!

I wish I had all this at the start of my install - hopefully this will help someone out during their upgrade!

 

[Wifey]

Very thorough job! If I were a teacher you would definitely get an A+++

 

[VIPR PWR]

Before you get to mounting the second bracket, which is what actually supports the SC, pay close attention to where the breather is sitting. The breather is the small air filter coming off the intake manifold just beside/below the throttle body. Installing this is done in an earlier step and its very simple with the supplied tubing and clamps in the kit, however I had to take this thing off probably 5 times because it was protruding too far and hitting the second bracket when I tried to get it installed.

The breather needs to be short, really really short. The tube I used was no more than 2-3” long. The head of the breather CANNOT stick out further than the black spools placed on the threaded studs after you install the first bracket. If it does, you need to go shorter with your tubing. It should really sit right into the carved out slot on the first bracket. See pics below.

The second bracket is pretty straightforward. I won’t do a whole lot of explaining here, the pictures do it justice on how it mounts and where the hardware goes. Keep in mind these are not step-by-step instructions on the install, these are only meant to help with the instructions that JMB provides and to give a few more pictures than you will find in the instructions.

Once the 2nd bracket is in, you can finally mount the SC. You will have to clock the SC compressor housing to align with the intercooler tubing. So once you get it set in and bolted up (loosely), just know you will have to pull it back off to tighten the compressor housing bolts based on where you are routing your intercooler tubing. You will notice in the pics that I only have 1-2 bolts snug to hold the SC in place.

I noticed in the one pic the pro charger is extremely close to the A/C hose .. does the Pro charger cause a lot of heat ? That could damage or burn through the A/C hose .. just curious !

 

[theCHASE]

I noticed in the one pic the pro charger is extremely close to the A/C hose .. does the Pro charger cause a lot of heat ? That could damage or burn through the A/C hose .. just curious !

Yep good question. The AC and heater hoses do run underneath the blower. I just got the heat shield mocked up last night and it provides a decent barrier. I am not sure the hoses are close enough to suffer any heat damage - then again I don’t know how hot the blower actually gets. All the hoses do tuck below both of the brackets and sit level or underneath the valve covers and the SC is propped up above the valve cover so that may create enough separation. It is hard to tell in the pictures, but there is a solid 3-4” of space between the hoses and blower itself. As a precautionary measure, I may look at getting some heat wrap for the hoses in the areas that pass right underneath the compressor housing if it looks too close.

I will keep you posted as I make it through the next couple steps in the install.

 

[VIPR PWR]

Yep good question. The AC and heater hoses do run underneath the blower. I just got the heat shield mocked up last night and it provides a decent barrier. I am not sure the hoses are close enough to suffer any heat damage - then again I don’t know how hot the blower actually gets. All the hoses do tuck below both of the brackets and sit level or underneath the valve covers and the SC is propped up above the valve cover so that may create enough separation. It is hard to tell in the pictures, but there is a solid 3-4” of space between the hoses and blower itself. As a precautionary measure, I may look at getting some heat wrap for the hoses in the areas that pass right underneath the compressor housing if it looks too close.

I will keep you posted as I make it through the next couple steps in the install.

Ok .. better sake than sorry as the saying goes

 

[GSJake]

You are right Mike at JMB is great to work with. They did my T-56 swap and he was very spot on with communication and questions.

Excellent write up. Let us know how it is driving it.

 

[theCHASE]

Hey folks! Been a busy week with work-life but I plan to be back in the shop this weekend making some further progress. I will provide more updates this weekend .

Goal is to finish up the wideband sensor install (finish drilling exhaust hole and install sensor), repair the fuel ventilation hose I broke dropping the gas tank and get it all reinstalled. Fingers crossed the new fuel pump works!

Will also try to make some more progress on the SC in getting pulleys installed.

My intercooler was slightly banged up from shipping so that had to go back to JMB to pressure test and I am also having it powder coated black. I want to make it a little more hidden behind the grill. It will take a little time to get that back before I can finish the full install - but more to come. Stay tuned!

 

[theCHASE]

Made some decent progress this weekend with a few things! Got the fuel vent hose repaired (broke it off during gas tank removal), got the torque limiter installed and also got the SC pulleys in place.

Waiting on the intercooler to get back to me before I can begin installing that, AC condenser, radiator and cooling fans - but things are coming along. I feel like I am in the final stretch!

Fuel vent hose: after much research online it seems like this is a pretty common problem when dropping the tanks on these trucks. In retrospect (and if I ever have to do this again) I would DEFINITELY take the bed off to do the fuel tank work. It seems like more work, but if you have a buddy or two (which is basically a requirement to drop/reinstall the gas tank) you can avoid a bunch of the tedious stuff I ran into. To repair the fuel vent hose (coming from fuel filler area to the top of the rollover valve) I just tapped into the other vent hose. All the research I did indicated that an entirely new tank would be needed - dodge doesn’t sell the rollover valve separate so there was no repairing this for a new stock connection. I chopped off the broken plastic piece on the rollover valve so it was flush, put a plug in the hole and then covered it up with some epoxy. From there, I clipped the other vent hose (hose running from front of tank to the back of the tank) and spliced in a T. From there, I ran about 12” of new nylon fuel line to a new fuel connector I purchased from Amazon. Warning - the nylon hoses are a pain to work with. Very little flex and pressing on the connectors was pretty tough. What I did (and it worked really well) was shove a Phillips screwdriver in the hose, heat the nylon hose, place the fuel connector in a drill, put some motor oil on the end of the connector seating into the hose, and then press/drill that bad boy into the hose. On the fuel connector, I didn’t want to crush the connection piece so I put a small finely threaded screw in the “tube” part (circled below in pic) so that the chuck wouldnt damage/crush/pinch the connector. Worked really well.

From there - getting the tank connection points was all pretty simple. I did break one of the small fuel hose plastic locking mechanisms (c-clip), got a pack of new ones at Autozone for $6 - so easy fix there. Getting the tank mounted back under the truck was a royal pain. Wore me and my friend out (I did have about 1/8 - 1/4 tank of gas in the tank). In retrospect I could have siphoned the gas out to make our lives easier. Overall the tank goes in like it came out. Get all the connection points hooked up and seated, then lift it into place and re-install the metal fuel tank straps.