Yeah I already have a monster I cant drive I just want the srt to smoke my buddy's Z06!
2004 SRT 10 with 1926 miles on it
- Thread starter mhackett
- Start date
Yeah I already have a monster I cant drive I just want the srt to smoke my buddy's Z06!
quickest cheap way to add power:
remove rear cats
kn drop in filter
catback exhaust.
next
tuner
full length headers and high flows or no cats
ported tb
then cowboy up for a cam/head package or forced induction if that isn't enough...
remove rear cats
kn drop in filter
catback exhaust.
next
tuner
full length headers and high flows or no cats
ported tb
then cowboy up for a cam/head package or forced induction if that isn't enough...
what year z06?
Or let Dan do the driving!
03.. 405hp with some bolt on's
Over the years I have done:
-Magnablow Catback - sounds great, didn't last (tend to blow holes in the muffler).
-MOPAR/Borla Headers & Catback - top quality no issues
-B&B Headers & Catback -just installed, I'm happy with it, deeper sound than the Borla. Bring $$$.
If you have the $$$, go B&B, then you are halfway there.
Scott from Venomous 1 Racing, also has a catback exhaust that he sells. Scott is a vendor here on the forum.
06SRT10
Full Access Member
Check out all of the vendors on this forum before you buy. They all own, drive & work on these trucks every day. Ask their advice. When you get ready for the SCT, you can get the unit with the tunes installed from Torrie. Since you are on the East Coast he is your best bet. Take baby steps with buying things for your 10. Remember everyone has an option about what is best, because that is usually what is on their 10 & it has worked well for them. I think we all agree about the K&N, you will not be adding horsepower with the others, but you will be adding bling. Don't jump in the deep end too quickly, it may be money wasted.
I am the Trainman and I have used the Volant for the entire time I have owned the truck (bought new in 2004). I have been 1 of the 2 Fastest NA trucks on this site it's entire time.....with an internally pure stock engine, only exhaust, ported intake and light weight tricks for 10 years. Best ET of 11.63 @ 118. Never had a problem with the Volant, and it was driven in the rain, over 68,000 miles in 10+ years. The Volant is out of the truck now because I have rebuilt the engine (Gen III block, GenIV heads and GenV intake) so the Volant will no longer fit. I also used the front of the Volant box (there is a square opening in the Volant behind the grill) to ram air directly into the box, not from the scoop. Let haters hate, but none of them ever beat my time!
:rock:As far as headers I would recommend the American Racing Headers equal length 5 into 1, per Chris Jensen. That's what I had made for my GenIV heads conversion. They make them for the Gen III engine in your truck. I also had a custom made catless equal length true dual exhaust with an x-pipe and twin Borla race mufflers. I felt my truck had one of the best sounds on this site, it did not have the 6 cylinder funny V-10 sound that a lot of the trucks have. My headers were MoFo's (similar to a Belanger) which were similar to a tri-Y header, not equal length, but that was all that was available in 2004.
I have used Eneos 5-40 oil for 9 years, Redline D4 in both the transmission and rear end, no problems. Eneos is a Japanese synthetic. Saw a dyno test several years ago and this made the most horsepower and best protection at the time. My engine had several hundred passes down the 1/4 mile along with regular driving in town and highway and it never used any oil between changes.
The only reason I rebuilt my engine was because I was stuck in the 11.60's for ET for about 3 years, that's the best I could do with the stock engine. I wanted more power, thus it was time to rebuild.
Watch this video and you will see the Volant in my truck. When the hood is up look to the left of the radiator to see the lower scoop that rams cold air into my intake, we used one of the front brake air scoops ( I had an extra) modified to fit into the Volant air box, cut it to fit behind the grill. Have fun with the truck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ue1jTs6c-Nc&feature=player_embedded
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Thank you really, this is new to me Iv never had one. I'm a hot rod guy.. Thanks again means a lot to me.
Psycho1122
Full Access Member
Sure it will.... SITTING STILL ON A DYNO. All the dynamics change once your over 40 m.p.h.
Your STOCK system does pull outside air. The grill block off has a duct placed on the upper right side in a high pressure area. Feeds the air into a cavity inside the front fender. Air slows down and recovers some positive pressure and then the engine draws off that into the stock box.
The hood vent is very effective in multiple ways. It sits just below the airstream when moving creating a low pressure area (Draw). As oldcolt stated, it minimizes the "parachute" effect under the hood, allowing the front splitter to be more effective. This draw also allows hot engine air to be vented at any speed above 40 m.p.h.
YES
It does not pull in outside air from the hood when moving. Keep in mind it has two other holes in the box which creates a "through flow" really. This is not a true "isolated cold air feed with slight pressure". It does create low restriction when sitting still on a dyno however. That is all defeated once up to speed. Members like Trainman have modified the box to take air directly in from the front grill. Feeds cold air, just not high volume air. His numbers are impressive primarily because he is an EXCELLENT driver and his overall mods work well as a package!!:rock:
It will if you obtain a wideband A/F meter. You can then fine tune your safe rich canned tune down into the 12.7:1 range. Canned tune can be as fat as 11:1. So can your stock tune. Or just get a custom dyno tune.
I would like not to buy it twice.
Get a B&B. Use it, enjoy it, then sell it later for 1/2 of what you paid or more depending on condition.
B&B
Cheers!
It was bc of you I got on this, I was just googling the questions I had then I seen what you had to say seemed like you know alot about my truck.. But Im going to run that cold air kit I got, I like the looks of it and Im going to run with it for now. I have not put it on yet, I will let you know what I think lol that that you care. But anyways, Thanks for all the help I will post pics soon.Sure it will.... SITTING STILL ON A DYNO. All the dynamics change once your over 40 m.p.h.
Your STOCK system does pull outside air. The grill block off has a duct placed on the upper right side in a high pressure area. Feeds the air into a cavity inside the front fender. Air slows down and recovers some positive pressure and then the engine draws off that into the stock box.
The hood vent is very effective in multiple ways. It sits just below the airstream when moving creating a low pressure area (Draw). As oldcolt stated, it minimizes the "parachute" effect under the hood, allowing the front splitter to be more effective. This draw also allows hot engine air to be vented at any speed above 40 m.p.h.
YES
It does not pull in outside air from the hood when moving. Keep in mind it has two other holes in the box which creates a "through flow" really. This is not a true "isolated cold air feed with slight pressure". It does create low restriction when sitting still on a dyno however. That is all defeated once up to speed. Members like Trainman have modified the box to take air directly in from the front grill. Feeds cold air, just not high volume air. His numbers are impressive primarily because he is an EXCELLENT driver and his overall mods work well as a package!!:rock:
It will if you obtain a wideband A/F meter. You can then fine tune your safe rich canned tune down into the 12.7:1 range. Canned tune can be as fat as 11:1. So can your stock tune. Or just get a custom dyno tune.
Get a B&B. Use it, enjoy it, then sell it later for 1/2 of what you paid or more depending on condition.
B&B
Cheers!
Redline ?? right
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