Bone's Engine Pull - Part Deux

belgiumbarry said:
don't they float :confused: :dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:


If you get a good ring seal and if they don't rust out before it arrives...then it will float. Remember when we would talk about "valve float"???
 
Prof said:
If you get a good ring seal and if they don't rust out before it arrives...then it will float. Remember when we would talk about "valve float"???

yes :D :D , o hell, in WWII they even made tanks float :p :D :D :D :rock:
 
STINKER'S LINES

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Before

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After

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Crower Rods and Diamond Pistons

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****Notice Taliban Dan's Barbie car in background! Sweet ride...

Crank put back in

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All balanced with crank. :driver:
 
Improved Crank pulley.
Thanks Eric! :rock:
 

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perk_1405 said:
improved:dontknow:
see posts 81, 113, and 116.
Should align correctly now. Only Eric tried the fitment.
 
eddie102870 said:
whatcha waitin on now?
nutin really, been putting it together. Had to give Dan a break during Easter.
 
Bone said:
nutin really, been putting it together. Had to give Dan a break during Easter.
he deserves it, bro. thats gonna be a bass azzzz motor when its done. i know your ready to ride again.
 
ARP Main Stud & Side Bolt Kit
Wire Separators
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Here is the interesting part. Look at the head wall of number 7, cleaner than the rest. We have been debating this for awhile now. Remember, I have/had a Roe SC on top of the heads with Sean's baffle/IM/diffuser plate on top of it for a distrubted air flow. Also, did not blow a head gasket, it was fine.

View attachment 19014
View attachment 19013[/QUOTE]
I finally read the entire thread and no'one mentioned the head face being so clean . My guess is that the cylinder got "wet" which caused a hydrolic effect to bend the rod . the cylinder recieved some fluid for a short time before hydrolicing the rod ,which cleaned the head face. until it finally leaked enough fluid into the chamber to bend the rod. The question should be what leaked in and why? before attempting any more boost . and/or NOS ! even thoughs crower rods will not stay straight with fluid in the chamber.
Is there any reason to believe that the heads would,due to all that cylinder pressure,"float" and could the blower over pressure the coolant system?and allow "maybe some leakage past the head gasket?
Just a thought .
 
Hucksrt10 said:
Here is the interesting part. Look at the head wall of number 7, cleaner than the rest. We have been debating this for awhile now. Remember, I have/had a Roe SC on top of the heads with Sean's baffle/IM/diffuser plate on top of it for a distrubted air flow. Also, did not blow a head gasket, it was fine.

View attachment 19014
View attachment 19013
I finally read the entire thread and no'one mentioned the head face being so clean . My guess is that the cylinder got "wet" which caused a hydrolic effect to bend the rod . the cylinder recieved some fluid for a short time before hydrolicing the rod ,which cleaned the head face. until it finally leaked enough fluid into the chamber to bend the rod. The question should be what leaked in and why? before attempting any more boost . and/or NOS ! even thoughs crower rods will not stay straight with fluid in the chamber.
Is there any reason to believe that the heads would,due to all that cylinder pressure,"float" and could the blower over pressure the coolant system?and allow "maybe some leakage past the head gasket?
Just a thought .[/quote]

WHUT?????:dontknow::confused::confused::confused:
 
KRAZYSRT10 said:
I finally read the entire thread and no'one mentioned the head face being so clean . My guess is that the cylinder got "wet" which caused a hydrolic effect to bend the rod . the cylinder recieved some fluid for a short time before hydrolicing the rod ,which cleaned the head face. until it finally leaked enough fluid into the chamber to bend the rod. The question should be what leaked in and why? before attempting any more boost . and/or NOS ! even thoughs crower rods will not stay straight with fluid in the chamber.
Is there any reason to believe that the heads would,due to all that cylinder pressure,"float" and could the blower over pressure the coolant system?and allow "maybe some leakage past the head gasket?
Just a thought .
WHUT?????:dontknow::confused::confused::confused:[/quote]

He's thinking water/coolant got into the cylinder thru the heads (gasket) possibly.

We already looked at that possibility. Heads were fine. Head gasket was fine. ARP head studs showed no wear/stretching. As posted before.

#9 was bent also. #7 was cock-eyed in the chamber and probably should have grenaded, #9 wasn't.

FI and NOS together is too much for the stock rods.
 
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Bone said:
WHUT?????:dontknow::confused::confused::confused:
He's thinking water/coolant got into the cylinder thru the heads (gasket) possibly.

We already looked at that possibility. Heads were fine. Head gasket was fine. ARP head studs showed no wear/stretching. As posted before.

#9 was bent also. #7 was cock-eyed in the chamber and probably should have grenaded, #9 wasn't.

FI and NOS together is too much for the stock rods.[/quote]




Oh....Why didnt he just say that???:dontknow::D
 
And I think that there is sufficient evidence to state that stock pistons will not stand up under any modification that adds heat...or anything else for that matter.

Any of you that have blow-by issues need to pull your heads and look at every ring land...I am willing to bet that you will find several lands that have cracks from the land to the dome. I believe that Bone was running Diamond Pistons when his problem occurred.

Bottom line: if you mod your engine, the rods and pistons need to be forged...just my opinion, but I think a year from now it will be the rule...forged rods and pistons with any HP increase. They are at their limit at stock hp and operating temperatures.
 
Here is my Roe SC tray drilled out to allow more airflow. Used 1/4" and 3/8" bits.

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