Forced Induction Questions - Help Me Decide

ROE's new blower made more power than the old one with the stock pulley. Who knows what it'll do with some more boost:dontknow:

:rock: The ROE is a blast to drive man. You're gonna love it:burnout:

wooooop wooooooooooooooooop
 
Prof said:
PM being sent (build list).

Roy

Thank you Sir. :rock:


Nice to know that the Roe Racing SCs can be made to hit 700rwhp+ with a well built engine and the correct pulley/psi. Thanks again everyone who helped and threw in some construction opinions. Have to keep in mind that not everyone with a Roe set up and truck lives and breaths this forum 24/7 LOL so what we see here in terms of power #s doesn't mean is the limit. :laugh: ;)
 
good choice. IMO cant really go wrong with either of the 2 systems.

It makes me smile to know that the Sean is still behind his product and I can really seeing things kicking up in the future for it. Really happy I held onto mine.
 
505'sFastestViper. said:
no offense but the roe is a lil weak for me but hey if 650 hp is all you want go for it just remember these things weigh a fuck load takes big hp to move them


Torque moves big arsed trucks................... Horsepower sells blower kits, and adds to braggin rights.:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :rock:
 
Dom, HV something or the other has a 700 hp build on a 7lb pulley. We sent him my 10lb pulley, haven't heard anything yet but it should be more. 700hpoddessey got damn close.

Carl, my 500hp roe makes 1st gear useless if you go wot on it, absolutely useless. But fun.
 
bigike said:
Dom, HV something or the other has a 700 hp build on a 7lb pulley. We sent him my 10lb pulley, haven't heard anything yet but it should be more. 700hpoddessey got damn close.

Carl, my 500hp roe makes 1st gear useless if you go wot on it, absolutely useless. But fun.


yep he got close alright, he was running a fully built motor though on the big pulley i believe and only a made a few hp shy of 700. Intercooling this thing will be the key, hell I be lying if I say I didnt spend sometime looking at L blower/intercooler setup trying to find a way to make it work for us
 
bigike said:
Dom, HV something or the other has a 700 hp build on a 7lb pulley. We sent him my 10lb pulley, haven't heard anything yet but it should be more. 700hpoddessey got damn close.

Carl, my 500hp roe makes 1st gear useless if you go wot on it, absolutely useless. But fun.
Thanks mate, with the built auto and some suspension mods I'm hoping to pedal away without the smoke fest known in these RCs. I already have JMBs Stage 3 traction kit. After the auto install and SC, the next step will be making sure I get most of that power, to the ground. Pointless having power when you can't use it. ;)

What do the bigger pulleys do exactly? What is the difference between a 6lb and 7lb? Is it bigger is better or does it depend on ones setup? Seems like small margins but I know with engines and a lot of things in cars, small increments often make big differences. Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated. :)
 
The pulley is smaller...it drives the twin screw faster.

The normal pulley is 5.6 lbs of boost...Roe also has a 10 lb (smaller) too.

Others have produced other pulleys at other boost factors. I think Kyle got several other sizes made.

Someone is also going larger on the bottom end pulleys...but I don't remember who or what the results were...

Trust me, the 10 lb will be plenty for the street...if you want to go with more boost, get an even smaller pulley made and put it on at the track...it takes about two minutes to change them.
 
Prof said:
The pulley is smaller...it drives the twin screw faster.

The normal pulley is 5.6 lbs of boost...Roe also has a 10 lb (smaller) too.

Others have produced other pulleys at other boost factors. I think Kyle got several other sizes made.

Someone is also going larger on the bottom end pulleys...but I don't remember who or what the results were...

Trust me, the 10 lb will be plenty for the street...if you want to go with more boost, get an even smaller pulley made and put it on at the track...it takes about two minutes to change them.
Cheers Roy, makes sense, thanks for the clarification. I'm sure the answer is no but worth asking, is the anyway you can adjust the psi from say, 2lbs up to around 7lbs inside the cab or is it something that once it's tuned for a certain amount, it stays that way until you tune it back again. Also, did you use an SCT to help tune your build Roy?
 
Not really a way to adjust the sc boost.

But Sean can provide different tunes and does so. I have the VEC II and the card reader is in the dash...I can change the tune in two or three seconds. I have four different tunes: Zero degrees timing w/water meth (hotrod card); minus 3 degrees of timing; minus 6 degress of timing; and a NO START card.

The minus 6 degrees of timing is really for emergencies if I cannot find premium fuel for some reason...I have a tune that will allow me to continue to roll.

The NO START card is used if I ever leave the truck in a parking lot outside of its garage. Even if someone has a key the engine will not run.

VECIICards.jpg


And here is where I have the card reader...

VECIIReader.jpg


I don't have any knowledge of the SCT...Sean is using it now and I think someone else will chime in to talk about its virtues.

Hope this helps.
 
being your across the pond the sct would be the easiest way for you to tune. thats gonna be a awesome ride when your done.
 
Thanks guys. :) I have an SCT already from Sean so that is why I asked.
Luckily the Batram already has a shit load of goodies in it lol. :D :D :D
 
If your looking for the most boost out of the ROE put the 10lbs pulley on the ROE and Stinkers 7" pulley on the crank,Ithink that should boost it to around 12-15lbs (not sure on exact # but its been done,and that what I will be doing)
 
Yellow venom said:
If your looking for the most boost out of the ROE put the 10lbs pulley on the ROE and Stinkers 7" pulley on the crank,Ithink that should boost it to around 12-15lbs (not sure on exact # but its been done,and that what I will be doing)
Thanks mate. :) So due to the increase of psi, I'm guessing the risk of BOOM also increases? :laugh: Do you think that set up, with a built engine/bottom end would be fine? I'm talking not thrashed, just used in normal "enthusiastic" driving situations lol.
 
Someone needs to do the math on the 10 lb plus Stinkers 7 incher...

Not me...math is not my area!

It really hurt to admit that Stinker has seven inches...I think that is a stretch by about 50%...:p :D
 
IMO dont go to goofy with a cam and head work for the Roe. Also another option on pistons and rods wiseco and K1 have to say the were a direct fit replacement and no machine work (except for bore hone). Stayed within spec ring gap 10 and 20. (daily driver not track whore) Have to say what a big differance. Only thing I do suggest is an inline fuel pump as a booster with the msd voltage booster. I should have dyno numbers in the next week with 6lb and 10lb and modified restricter plates. So we have only just scratched the surface and I see 700 plus soon to come plus throw in a 150 shot for the track:D And if you dont have caltracs yet add a set of helper bags and :burnout: :burnout: :D Need anything else just pm me:marchmellow:
 
Prof said:
Someone needs to do the math on the 10 lb plus Stinkers 7 incher...

Not me...math is not my area!

It really hurt to admit that Stinker has seven inches...I think that is a stretch by about 50%...:p :D

With Stinks 7" and Roe's std 5.6 LB pulley I am getting exactly 11.0 PSI...checked by in cab gauge and mechanic's guage. My heads are ported & polished so stock heads might get a little more PSI.
 
Good input...so extrapolating your numbers to mine...

I got 2.4 lb increase from the 5.6 to the 10 lb...(too much head work!)

So if you got an additional 5 plus...adding Stinkers 7 incher to my current 8 lbs...would probably move me to 12 or 13...?? I know this can't be linear but that is kind of exciting!
 

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