Forced Induction Questions - Help Me Decide

Prof said:
Good input...so extrapolating your numbers to mine...

I got 2.4 lb increase from the 5.6 to the 10 lb...(too much head work!)

So if you got an additional 5 plus...adding Stinkers 7 incher to my current 8 lbs...would probably move me to 12 or 13...?? I know this can't be linear but that is kind of exciting!

Before adding the 7" pulley I had a 10LB pulley on the Roe...with the 5.6 pulley and OEM crank pulley my guage read about 7LBs.........10LB pulley with OEM crank pulley gave me 9.3....
 
my stock pully would start off at 5.5 lbs and climb to around 8 at the top of the rpm band.
 
Ive had the Roe on the car, and the Paxton on the truck (with 688RW), and now TT's.

I would say it really depends on your driving style and ULTIMATELY how much power do you want. If your like me, its 500 for 6 months, then 700 for 6 months, then 800 for 6 months...etc..I get bored quick. Then Turbo(s) is going to be your best bet. Its easy to adjust the boost, and possibilities are endless.

Now for superchargers....Your somewhat limited to power (roe 600-650, Paxton 650-750), if you see yourself not getting tired of those numbers, then you need to decided WHEN you want the power to come on. Do you want 1-4k power or 3-6k power?

1-4k power - Roe
3-6K Power - Paxton
3-6k power unlimited potential - Justin Turbo kit

Obviously a lot more is involved when you get into more Hp (Fuel, etc..) but you get the point...
 
RedSrt007 said:
Ive had the Roe on the car, and the Paxton on the truck (with 688RW), and now TT's.

I would say it really depends on your driving style and ULTIMATELY how much power do you want. If your like me, its 500 for 6 months, then 700 for 6 months, then 800 for 6 months...etc..I get bored quick. Then Turbo(s) is going to be your best bet. Its easy to adjust the boost, and possibilities are endless.

Now for superchargers....Your somewhat limited to power (roe 600-650, Paxton 650-750), if you see yourself not getting tired of those numbers, then you need to decided WHEN you want the power to come on. Do you want 1-4k power or 3-6k power?

1-4k power - Roe
3-6K Power - Paxton
3-6k power unlimited potential - Justin Turbo kit

Obviously a lot more is involved when you get into more Hp (Fuel, etc..) but you get the point...

Roe has instant boost, which is great becasue its like a shotgun blast...but by the time you get to 4500rpms you are bored with the power.
I drove a procharged vette i was looking at buying that put down upper 800rwhpish...it was awesome in 4th gear becasue the power never stopped.
my personal opinion after having owned a roe viper, drive the procharger vette...I would go procharger or turbo....IF YOU ARE A POWER FREAK.
some poeple the truck stock is good for them, they will be more that happy with the roe. if thats the case do some striker heads and his street cam, tune it with the SCT...you WILL ALWAYS be able to resell those heads, they are amazing


for me it would I would do the head work and build a good solid engine. if you need excessive powe the heads will help with the turbo

heads and/or turbo
 
Carlwalski said:
Thanks for everyone's input, it's much appreciated. ;) After a few beers, some time at the "decision" table and doing a lot or research here and on the www, I have decided the best option for me and The BATRAM is Roe's set up. Reasons: He's awesome to deal with, backs his work up and will be there for me after the sale if he's needed. It makes the kind of power I am wanting and with a built engine, who's to say we can't make more than 700rwhp (that's the goal 700). The Paxton set up won't work with a RHD truck and to tell you the truth, I love the looks of the Roe's top mount system + it will give me that low down grunt of which I am a fan of.

JMBs set up is nice but after some thought, just way overkill for my 95% street driven brawler. I want to be able to use most if not all of my hp/T and not have to keep backing off and pedaling it (not each and every time all the way up the rpm range), the novelty will wear out fast and it's a little overkill for a street driven truck like mine, fine if it were mainly a track truck. I got an email from Sean @ Roe Racing and he said; "I have done what I wanted to do for testing and will be making the final decision (based on the numbers I needed to crunch) soon. The most probably possibility is we’ll go back to the previous design and parts, but change them up a bit." Only time will tell but it was and will be a safe set up IMO. Can't wait to get started on these performance mods.......:burnout: Just have to confirm with Sean that everything will work with my RHD set up, I can't see any issues though.


Thanks again guys!
Cheers, Carl


RoeRacingSupercharger2.jpg


:congrats: :congrats: :congrats:
You'll be happy with your decision,The Roe sounds and looks great:rock:
Higher bling factor than the Paxton too.I forgot that you are r/h drive,So the Roe would be a better choice for fitment as well.
On a side note:could you post up a pic of your dash(speedo)for an idea I've been thinking about.I'd also love to see your pedal setup as well!!:D
 
Hi Everyone,
Long time no see!
I had to downsize the company staff from five to three last September to October and find a way to still get all the work done (at no additional expense). That meant me working double the hours per week. Things had to get cut out, such as a personal life and the internet. It was a necessity. So, sorry I've been off the net, but as anyone who's purchased from us over the last six months has seen, we're didn't let our service level slip.
Back to current topic, I'm going to start a thread about our SC's shortly, maybe tonight, as I need some input from you guys. In the mean time, please remember, the kit we made was tuned and verified for a particular purpose. Take it outside of what I tested it for and your results will vary and more testing and tuning will be needed. This was supposed ot be a 575-600 RWHP kit on a stock truck at a great bang for the buck with a quick and easy install (for most). There's nothing to say it can't make more power on a motor that has good pistons to handle it, but development and tuning will be needed. I could only go so far on the stock engine truck I had before it was sold in the big "D" I went through. If you want bigger power, turbos are the way to go. To that end, we're building a 2005 Viper SRT-10 twin turbo now, with intentions of financing a production run to bring the cost down to a reasonable level.
If anyone has a question I can answer on this thread, fire away. I'll get the other thread / topic up soon and I really need input there.

TTYL,
Sean
 
Carlwalski said:
Cheers Roy, makes sense, thanks for the clarification. I'm sure the answer is no but worth asking, is the anyway you can adjust the psi from say, 2lbs up to around 7lbs inside the cab or is it something that once it's tuned for a certain amount, it stays that way until you tune it back again. Also, did you use an SCT to help tune your build Roy?


You can adjust the psi. Place a wastegate with the bypass valve. It isn't a very efficient solution since you are using the same HP to create 7psi or a bled-off 2psi but it will work. FSTJack and RamFromHell are doing the same thing with there Procharger kits to help with traction at the track.

There are more elaborate ways but the $$$$$$$$ gets in the way.......
 
Roe Racing said:
Hi Everyone,
Long time no see!
I had to downsize the company staff from five to three last September to October and find a way to still get all the work done (at no additional expense). That meant me working double the hours per week. Things had to get cut out, such as a personal life and the internet. It was a necessity. So, sorry I've been off the net, but as anyone who's purchased from us over the last six months has seen, we're didn't let our service level slip.
Back to current topic, I'm going to start a thread about our SC's shortly, maybe tonight, as I need some input from you guys. In the mean time, please remember, the kit we made was tuned and verified for a particular purpose. Take it outside of what I tested it for and your results will vary and more testing and tuning will be needed. This was supposed ot be a 575-600 RWHP kit on a stock truck at a great bang for the buck with a quick and easy install (for most). There's nothing to say it can't make more power on a motor that has good pistons to handle it, but development and tuning will be needed. I could only go so far on the stock engine truck I had before it was sold in the big "D" I went through. If you want bigger power, turbos are the way to go. To that end, we're building a 2005 Viper SRT-10 twin turbo now, with intentions of financing a production run to bring the cost down to a reasonable level.
If anyone has a question I can answer on this thread, fire away. I'll get the other thread / topic up soon and I really need input there.

TTYL,
Sean


Sean,

Looking forward to the new topic/thread as I have a lot of ideas and I am glad you have checked in with us!
 
1qksrt said:
:congrats: :congrats: :congrats:
You'll be happy with your decision,The Roe sounds and looks great:rock:
Higher bling factor than the Paxton too.I forgot that you are r/h drive,So the Roe would be a better choice for fitment as well.
On a side note:could you post up a pic of your dash(speedo)for an idea I've been thinking about.I'd also love to see your pedal setup as well!!:D
Sure.....sounds interesting. I've been looking at those motorbike shift indicators, wonder if we could make them work with automatics. Not needed but a nice tech touch/gizmo.


gpt-gear.jpg




As per the dash, is this what you mean or a little further back? :)

SRT10River13.jpg
 
ROE TWIN TURBO

:rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock: :rock:
 
Carlwalski said:
Sure.....sounds interesting. I've been looking at those motorbike shift indicators, wonder if we could make them work with automatics. Not needed but a nice tech touch/gizmo.


gpt-gear.jpg




As per the dash, is this what you mean or a little further back? :)

SRT10River13.jpg

That pic is perfect,
I have been trying to find a way to get an export cluster,and convert the k.p.h. to m.p.h..Hopefully winding up with a 280 m.p.h. speedo:dontknow:
I was also curious about how the whole pedal shifter layout looks on a r/h drive.
 
1qksrt said:
That pic is perfect,
I have been trying to find a way to get an export cluster,and convert the k.p.h. to m.p.h..Hopefully winding up with a 280 m.p.h. speedo:dontknow:
I was also curious about how the whole pedal shifter layout looks on a r/h drive.
Hi bud, not being rude or blunt (lol) but it's easier if you just go to The BATRAM thread.
A few photos of the interior, shifter, pedals etc. :)

http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32872&highlight=batram
 
Congrats on the decision for the Roe! Sean has always been a pleasure to deal with when I've called.:)

Just a thought though, I've wondered about the combination of a vehicle with low-speed/launch traction issues and a supercharger with tons of grunt down low...;) Seems as though it would be more manageable with a supercharger that builds power just a little later.

Guess I'll just have to wait until I have Dale's (tinygiants) truck back together to find out.:D
 
Ram From Hell said:
Congrats on the decision for the Roe! Sean has always been a pleasure to deal with when I've called.:)

Just a thought though, I've wondered about the combination of a vehicle with low-speed/launch traction issues and a supercharger with tons of grunt down low...;) Seems as though it would be more manageable with a supercharger that builds power just a little later.

Guess I'll just have to wait until I have Dale's (tinygiants) truck back together to find out.:D
I agree here... I already have a hard time not spinning without the TS. I couldn't imagine trying to launch hard with one on. I guess you would not need a line lock :)
 
Ram From Hell said:
Congrats on the decision for the Roe! Sean has always been a pleasure to deal with when I've called.:)

Just a thought though, I've wondered about the combination of a vehicle with low-speed/launch traction issues and a supercharger with tons of grunt down low...;) Seems as though it would be more manageable with a supercharger that builds power just a little later.

Guess I'll just have to wait until I have Dale's (tinygiants) truck back together to find out.:D
amtrucker22 said:
I agree here... I already have a hard time not spinning without the TS. I couldn't imagine trying to launch hard with one on. I guess you would not need a line lock :)

I agree, traction is hard with these trucks. I'm hoping between having a built race spec automatic and some suspension tuning I'll get the RC to bite consistently and hard more often than not. :)
 
ENGINE BUILD

Hi guys,



I'm going with the Roe, made that decision a while ago and now it's time to forge and build the engine. :D Goals are strength, longevity and performance (isn't that what we all want?) lol. My main goal is strength. Below is a list of engine parts from Sean @ Roe Racing and Stinker/Tony from JTVS. Am I missing anything, any input, advice? As you'll see some of the items I am unsure of so have asked Stinker to purchase those on my behalf, he knows the part #s etc. Price IS an issue but I don't mind paying to have the best. Some of it's personal preference, but it seems the majority favor certain brands and parts so that is the way I will head.



Cheers,
Carl


* Roe Racing TMTS Supercharger without VEC 3 (SCT instead)
* Full Forged JE Pistons & JE Rings
* K1 I-Beam Connecting Rods
* Pro-Gram Billet Main Caps
* Forged? Coated Federal Mogul Rod & Main Bearings
* Valve Springs, Valves and Push Rods
* Stinkers 7" Crank Pulley (To go with my Roe Supercharger)
* ARP Dodge Viper Head Bolt Set
* Cometic Head Gaskets
* Oil Filter
* Special Order Front Crank Seal
* Special Order Rear Crank Seal
* Special Order Fuel Injector Upgrade for Supercharger
* MSD Fuel Pump Voltage Booster
* Universal Boost Methanol Injection Kit-Viper
* Set of 10 Bosch Platinum Spark Plugs




Cheers,
Carl
 
Looks good. I also like roller rockers, crower is what I put in mine. But then you either need valve cover spacers or taller valve covers.

I don't like using a voltage booster on the fuel pump as a way to add fuel. Go with 2 or 3 walboro pumps in the tank. Still internal so not loud and all the fuel you could want.
 

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