Forced Induction Questions - Help Me Decide

[bigike]

I don't think your going to spin the rpm's that warrant such a huge purchase. Rolling thunder sell some nice rocker arm's. I know nothing about them but the look good for the price.

 

[bigike]

The Roe is a street brawler, even with mine at a embarrassing 500 hp at any one point in time its the faster car/truck around me.................

 

[Carlwalski]

I don't think your going to spin the rpm's that warrant such a huge purchase. Rolling thunder sell some nice rocker arm's. I know nothing about them but the look good for the price.

Huh? Not sure I follow your rpm comment? The Roe is a great unit, no doubt, not saying it isn't. However, for me and my plans, stretching to 700rwhp just isn't going to cut it. And realistically it's going to be more like 650rwhp. I can have a custom F2 ProCharger for $3K more than a Roe in parts and pay a few days extra in labour and make 700rwhp straight off the bat. I know in future that I will crave more, that is basically impossible with a Roe, with a ProCharger, it's take your pick. 800rwhp? 950rwhp? 1,200rwhp? and that is what I like. Plus, being able to run a unit at 60% of it's capabilities is a nice thing, running a Roe or Paxton maxed out can't be good. Personal choice, nothing more. It's a 2.3 tonne truck so "700rwhp" isn't really major when power to weight is applied. I like powerful vehicles.

 

[avmech]

if you want to get the temp down on the heaters, make a spray bar for the blower an use a 50 shot of NX. temp down and a shit load of TQ to boot. RPM's are not the 8.3 friend. remember that it is a huge cid to throwing around. most v 10 are 5.0 liters or smaller.

 

[Prof]

Hey! An avmech sighting.

Following his idea...has anyone used N02 with a Roe? The idea of additional cooling of the intake temp is interesting...

Randy, don't forget my GTG on June 6th...want to see that Mustang!

 

[avmech]

i use a 50 shot on my heaton and wow it works like a champ i gain over a 100 tq and 103 hp. inlet temps drops are huge. I wont for get about the June 6 happy time. only thing is my daughters dance recital in at 7:00. so I need to get to your house early so I can stay for a while.

 

[Prof]

i use a 50 shot on my heaton and wow it works like a champ i gain over a 100 tq and 103 hp. inlet temps drops are huge. I wont for get about the June 6 happy time. only thing is my daughters dance recital in at 7:00. so I need to get to your house early so I can stay for a while.

Great we will start at noon or hell before if you want!

 

[bigike]

Huh? Not sure I follow your rpm comment? The Roe is a great unit, no doubt, not saying it isn't. However, for me and my plans, stretching to 700rwhp just isn't going to cut it. And realistically it's going to be more like 650rwhp. I can have a custom F2 ProCharger for $3K more than a Roe in parts and pay a few days extra in labour and make 700rwhp straight off the bat. I know in future that I will crave more, that is basically impossible with a Roe, with a ProCharger, it's take your pick. 800rwhp? 950rwhp? 1,200rwhp? and that is what I like. Plus, being able to run a unit at 60% of it's capabilities is a nice thing, running a Roe or Paxton maxed out can't be good. Personal choice, nothing more. It's a 2.3 tonne truck so "700rwhp" isn't really major when power to weight is applied. I like powerful vehicles.

6,000 rpms is where you will live. You do not need a super duper kreptonite valve train to accomplish that. The Roe is proven to preform well/great when mixed with N20.

1fast400 with a spray nozzle in the back of the Roe has video prof of a 11.04 and said he went high 10's on a built engine and spray.

Spray is the missing ingredient in the mix for the Roe.

 

[Prof]

...The Roe is proven to preform well/great when mixed with N20.

1fast400 with a spray nozzle in the back of the Roe has video prof of a 11.04 and said he went high 10's on a built engine and spray.

Spray is the missing ingredient in the mix for the Roe.

That is proof?

Come on...he may have run 10 times...that is not proof.

 

[bigike]

There is an awesome write up in here. there was a guy that loved his roe, swore by it. Then he bought a paxton, the power curve is way different and all the things he said he liked about the twin screw, well he liked the progressive centrifugal system beter. So if your wanting to make the most HP, go for the Prochager. If you want bang for the buck, roe.

 

[bigike]

http://vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19551&highlight=roe+paxton

 

[505'sFastestViper.]

Huh? Not sure I follow your rpm comment? The Roe is a great unit, no doubt, not saying it isn't. However, for me and my plans, stretching to 700rwhp just isn't going to cut it. And realistically it's going to be more like 650rwhp. I can have a custom F2 ProCharger for $3K more than a Roe in parts and pay a few days extra in labour and make 700rwhp straight off the bat. I know in future that I will crave more, that is basically impossible with a Roe, with a ProCharger, it's take your pick. 800rwhp? 950rwhp? 1,200rwhp? and that is what I like. Plus, being able to run a unit at 60% of it's capabilities is a nice thing, running a Roe or Paxton maxed out can't be good. Personal choice, nothing more. It's a 2.3 tonne truck so "700rwhp" isn't really major when power to weight is applied. I like powerful vehicles.

t o answer some of your questions a stock cam and valve train are good to over a 1000 whp we proved this the weak link is the head gaskets cmoteic oem or anything else ...they all fail at 22psi its just the way it is.....the very first setup we did was rods and pistons and we made aver a 1000 .... then you know how it goes you want more and more and more until you push the limits of everything....i have found every single weak link on these trucks and there are more i am sure that i will find in my journey to 2000

 

[TNVIPER]

There is an awesome write up in here. there was a guy that loved his roe, swore by it. Then he bought a paxton, the power curve is way different and all the things he said he liked about the twin screw, well he liked the progressive centrifugal system beter. So if your wanting to make the most HP, go for the Prochager. If you want bang for the buck, roe.

Somebody here also did a write up about removing the Roe and installing a Paxton...he said he knew made the wrong decision as soon as he went WOT..........just depends on what you want...

 

[FerrariTruck]

Huh? Not sure I follow your rpm comment? The Roe is a great unit, no doubt, not saying it isn't. However, for me and my plans, stretching to 700rwhp just isn't going to cut it. And realistically it's going to be more like 650rwhp. I can have a custom F2 ProCharger for $3K more than a Roe in parts and pay a few days extra in labour and make 700rwhp straight off the bat. I know in future that I will crave more, that is basically impossible with a Roe, with a ProCharger, it's take your pick. 800rwhp? 950rwhp? 1,200rwhp? and that is what I like. Plus, being able to run a unit at 60% of it's capabilities is a nice thing, running a Roe or Paxton maxed out can't be good. Personal choice, nothing more. It's a 2.3 tonne truck so "700rwhp" isn't really major when power to weight is applied. I like powerful vehicles.

you dont need more then 650-700 on the street. the tires can barely hold that kind of power.

 

[Prof]

I will go so far as to say that 650 - 700 rwhp on the street is just plain dangerous. Its one of the reasons, I shake my head no emphatically when someone wants a street race...

 

[pokeytemplar]

Steel is the strongest you can get. Ti has a fatigue life that can be extended with coatings but still falls short of steel. Your goal is a street truck and yes the Ti is trick but do you really want to have to keep tearing into the engine constantly? For all of the goals you have mentioned Ti valves, springs, rods, wristpins, and pushrods would just be a waste of money. Would they work? Yes, but the benefits would not outweigh the costs both monetarily and lifespan wise. That money would be better spent on the traction/safety side of the build.

 

[FerrariTruck]

Steel is the strongest you can get. Ti has a fatigue life that can be extended with coatings but still falls short of steel. Your goal is a street truck and yes the Ti is trick but do you really want to have to keep tearing into the engine constantly? For all of the goals you have mentioned Ti valves, springs, rods, wristpins, and pushrods would just be a waste of money. Would they work? Yes, but the benefits would not outweigh the costs both monetarily and lifespan wise. That money would be better spent on the traction/safety side of the build.

yeah its very easy to get carried away

 

[bigike]

Tires can't hold 500 whp........... 1st is a wash.

 

[Carlwalski]

t o answer some of your questions a stock cam and valve train are good to over a 1000 whp we proved this the weak link is the head gaskets cmoteic oem or anything else ...they all fail at 22psi its just the way it is.....the very first setup we did was rods and pistons and we made aver a 1000 .... then you know how it goes you want more and more and more until you push the limits of everything....i have found every single weak link on these trucks and there are more i am sure that i will find in my journey to 2000

Thanks, good to know about the cam etc. I will leave the stock cam. What gaskets offer the best resistance to failure? I'm looking at the Cometic gaskets.


Thanks everyone else as well. 650-700rwhp is heaps for the street. But, it's all how you use it. No one here drives around WOT 24/7/365 lol. If I'm on a lone highway (think Mad Max country) and no one else around, I'd be lying (as would 95%+ of you) if you said you wouldn't indulge in the power goodies. I never "race" or play a fool anywhere near anyone, not outside schools, residential streets, malls, parking lots, not everyone with a license and a powerful vehicle is a "You Tube Idiot". I'll be happy with 700rwhp but once again, I repeat, if I ever want more, then there is plenty left in it. You don't get that with a Roe/Paxton, that's just fact, not being "mean" or picky, that's just the way it is and for me, I want the capabilities of going further and for $3K more in parts, to me, I'd be silly not to ProCharge it.

Let's not forget either that "700rwhp" isn't exactly "true" when you consider these trucks are heavy. As far as traction, yup, no doubt, traction is kind of poor. From a dig, roll in to it and from a decent rolling start with some pedaling it'll still be a lot of fun and traction should be fine. I already have JMBs Stage 3 traction kit and plan to try Caltracs and really dial in my suspension. As it is now when I've dumped the clutch it's pretty bad, IF, you want it to be, pedal it a little and you're good to go. Plus, not sure if some of you guys know but I'm going auto. A RC with an auto built for war is going to be a lot easier, cleaner and quicker to get off the line each and every time aka consistently. Only time will tell.


Thanks.

 

[WOT]

Has anyone tried o-ringing the block or heads and run a copper gasket? Is there any reason would couldn't do that. An o-ringed setup should easily be able to handle 30+ psi boost.