PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

[ZCx]

There isn't much more you can do if you want to stay N.A.. Personally, I like N.A. for general performance use with these trucks. Done properly, it works well !

You can go with a ported throttle body and a drop-in K&N air filter. You could install an under-drive pulley (doesn't ADD power but frees some up and leaves more for the wheels). Drop your spare if you haven't already. Again it doesn't ADD power but losing that 97 pounds is like freeing up approx. 10 horsepower.

Change your plugs at 1/2 the recommended interval or even more often than that. Index your plugs (do a search through prior posts on this if you aren't sure about it).

Adding a cam without doing PROPER head mods is a lot of work and quite expensive for the return in power.

GOOD head work or even better, aftermarket heads WITH a GOOD cam will help A LOT. From there, a ported intake...maybe...it depends how far you want to go...??..

These engines love more compression...just watch the tune especially if you stay with the stock heads.

Again, depending on how far you want to go...and how much you want to spend.

Proper cylinder head work or outright swapping them for aftermarket units is a big step toward more power 'cause that is where power is made.

Keep in mind in the end, regardless of what you have done to the o.e.m. heads, you won't end up (more or less) eliminating the intake dogleg the stockers have nor will you end up with a modern design, fast-burn combustion chamber, or an extra thick rigid deck, like you WILL have with aftermarket heads. The aftermarket heads are more money but have some important advantages over the modified stockers (quality of flow and more of it). They have a MUCH cleaner burn AND your engine will run considerably cooler due to increased coolant flow in and around the heads. The difference in power is amazing and, with a proper cam choice you will pick up some gas mileage!

Open your wallet, make good choices, and go have some fun !

Ronnie

so a real nice N/A build would be forged short block, heads, cam to match, Hogan's intake, BBK TB, good tune by Sean & one would have a very strong engine that ya could jump in & run to the store or hammer down for a 1500 mile trip????
:rock: :rock: :rock: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

are there any other aftermarket heads for the Gen III other than the Strikers?????

 

[Prof]

Striker.

http://jmcylinderheads.com/?page_id=57

 

[rottenronnie]

so a real nice N/A build would be forged short block, heads, cam to match, Hogan's intake, BBK TB, good tune by Sean & one would have a very strong engine that ya could jump in & run to the store or hammer down for a 1500 mile trip????
:rock: :rock: :rock: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

are there any other aftermarket heads for the Gen III other than the Strikers?????

Yup, that would about do it.

I didn't even go with any forged stuff. The BIG concern there is forged pistons offer better resistance to damage from detonation, especially in a forced induction build with a fast boost-building twin screw supercharger like the Roe uses, if installed in a heavy vehicle (like our trucks). I would say they are a MUST in that case.
Forged pistons (generally) don't shatter and crack apart like cast pistons under those conditions. If detonation is not controlled, even forged pistons WILL fail; albeit in a less spectacular fashion.

As far as a Hogan intake goes, it all depends on the application. The stock manifold works well for what I do with my own truck. I only take it to the track a few times a year and a Hogan would be overkill for me. I don't even have headers...

I would go with Strikers if you are going to go aftermarket...pricey (maybe??) but first class, and they work as advertised. Make sure to think your cam selection through carefully to try and decide HOW your truck will be used and realistically how much of that time will be spent at W.O.T. compared to part-throttle.

Ronnie

 

[Prof]

Yup, that would about do it.

I didn't even go with any forged stuff. The BIG concern there is forged pistons offer better resistance to damage from detonation, especially with a fast boost-building twin screw supercharger like the Roe uses, when installed in a heavy vehicle (like our trucks). Forged pistons don't shatter and crack apart like cast pistons under those conditions. If detonation is not controlled, even forged pistons WILL fail; albeit in a less spectacular fashion.

As far as a Hogan intake goes, for me it would be overkill and likely reduce overall usable torque, which is what I was trying to build (I'm making an assumption here Hogan's are a race-piece). It all depends on the application. The stock manifold works well for what I do with my own truck.

I would go with Strikers if you are going to go aftermarket...

Some pretty strong advice...IMO.

If you manage detonation effectively...these engines are strong. Once you have a firm grip on air/fuel mixture...I really think the issues are mainly traction...

 

[ZCx]

Yup, that would about do it.

I didn't even go with any forged stuff. The BIG concern there is forged pistons offer better resistance to damage from detonation, especially in a forced induction build with a fast boost-building twin screw supercharger like the Roe uses, if installed in a heavy vehicle (like our trucks). I would say they are a MUST in that case.
Forged pistons (generally) don't shatter and crack apart like cast pistons under those conditions. If detonation is not controlled, even forged pistons WILL fail; albeit in a less spectacular fashion.

As far as a Hogan intake goes, it all depends on the application. The stock manifold works well for what I do with my own truck. I only take it to the track a few times a year and a Hogan would be overkill for me. I don't even have headers...

I would go with Strikers if you are going to go aftermarket...pricey (maybe??) but first class, and they work as advertised. Make sure to think your cam selection through carefully to try and decide HOW your truck will be used and realistically how much of that time will be spent at W.O.T. compared to part-throttle.

Ronnie

i agree with Prof. very good sound advice.:rock: :congrats: :rock: :congrats:

the forged parts are, to me, to help increase the life & reliability of the engine.

yep thats where Hogan's got their start. just from what folks have posted about the stock manifold should help even out the flow to the cyl. but they build ya a sheet metal intake for show to go. beautiful workmanship. hogansracingmanifolds.com is where they be at.

everyone was tryin to get the Strickers when i first came here. checkin them out one could not go wrong with them for sure.

thanks Ronnie:burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

 

[COLD BLOODED]

FIRST MODS ON STOCK QC

I BOUGHT MY '05 SRT10 QC LAST NOVEMBER FROM A USED CAR LOT IN HOUSTON. I ALSO BOUGHT A 3YEAR/36MONTH BUMPER TO BUMPER WARRANTY. I WOULD LIKE TO DO A FEW SIMPLE MODS TO PICK UP A FEW EXTRA PONYS LIKE A PROGRAMMER, EXAUST SYSTEM, AND COLD AIR INTAKE. WHO IS THE BEST MAKER OF EACH OF THESE, AND WILL ANY VOID MY WARRANTY? ARE THERE ANY OTHER MODS I CAN DO TO WILL NOT VOID IT?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

you can do an SCT programmer, it downloads the tunes, then you can remove them for warranty work if needed

a drop in filter is probably best, most CAI dont really make any hp over the stock stuff , but more for looks and bling.

a cat back exhaust would not void your warranty, only the exhaust section of it.

but MBRP, Mopar, borla, all make great systems, alot like the magnaflow, but lately there quality is a little lacking

 

[TREKER]

Question:
Can you actually lose hp / tq by not having any back pressure on an exhaust?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Question:
Can you actually lose hp / tq by not having any back pressure on an exhaust?

yep, you can loose a little tq with no back pressure,

 

[Tooloe]

yep, you can loose a little tq with no back pressure,

but is it really that much with out trucks.... i mnean with in reason.... i think running a nice 3 1/2 inch exhaust would sound nice but would not lose alot of Tq bu some down low..... but you would also gain Hp up top correc t?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

but is it really that much with out trucks.... i mnean with in reason.... i think running a nice 3 1/2 inch exhaust would sound nice but would not lose alot of Tq bu some down low..... but you would also gain Hp up top correc t?

yeah sorry, had a phone call and cut it quick

unless we do a back to back dyno and only change the mufflers and nothing else, we cant rreally tell.

but I dont think it would be a huge decrease in trq, how much not really sure, but I would think that there would be a small decrease

 

[TREKER]

Reason I ask is now that I have bassani's, catless mids, and power sticks (Thank you Stinker :rock: ) I notice that I redline much quicker and it gives the appearance of less power. Is this just a rookie mentality?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

no there probably is a difference,

man I would love to see someone dyno one before and after the sticks

you should see an increase in rpms being quicker with less backpressure, that is a given, but trq wise Iwould think it would decrease, but increase the hp.

Maybe if Ronnie sees this he can give us the scientific reason behind this

 

[TREKER]

no there probably is a difference,

man I would love to see someone dyno one before and after the sticks

you should see an increase in rpms being quicker with less backpressure, that is a given, but trq wise Iwould think it would decrease, but increase the hp.

Maybe if Ronnie sees this he can give us the scientific reason behind this

A decrease in tq and increase in hp... I get the logic... But a decrease in tq I should even notice going from magnaflow to powersticks?

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

A decrease in tq and increase in hp... I get the logic... But a decrease in tq I should even notice going from magnaflow to powersticks?

compared to a magnaflow muffer a powerstick is tons less restrictive

 

[Texas Yellow Fever]

yep, you can loose a little tq with no back pressure,

Tony, I agree with you on this. The loss can be noticable in the seat of the pants dyno. I'm not sure if it's lack of back pressure or lack of scavenging that does it, but you can get too carried away and loose torque.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Tony, I agree with you on this. The loss can be noticable in the seat of the pants dyno. I'm not sure if it's lack of back pressure or lack of scavenging that does it, but you can get too carried away and loose torque.

thats what I have noticed,

the one that sticks out is I had a 84 z28 we built the engine in, had 2 inch exhaust ran great, dropped in a 3 inch exhaust and it ran totally different, totally lost all bottom end compared to before

 

[pokeytemplar]

Back pressure is bad. You don't ever want any if at all possible. Problem you most likely had was that when you went up to the 3" exhaust your velocities went down hurting the scavenging affect at the lower rpm's. Should have lost power down low and gained it up at the top where the increased diameter helped. It is all a huge balancing act where every decision has tradeoff's.

 

[Texas Yellow Fever]

thats what I have noticed,

the one that sticks out is I had a 84 z28 we built the engine in, had 2 inch exhaust ran great, dropped in a 3 inch exhaust and it ran totally different, totally lost all bottom end compared to before

Yep, did the same thing with a '66 Cuda back in the day. Sounded great, ran like shit.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

Some very smart people in motorcycle racing at Yamaha developed an ingenious device called an exhaust throttle valve (actually Yamaha called their's an EXUP valve and were the first to use this idea; Honda called their's the H-VIX valve). These valves have are placed at the merge points of the header primaries. They are kept open and are continuous with the header. At cam overlap, the valve partially closes. This prevents both the intake air-fuel mix from shooting into the header (called overscavenging) and blocks any reflected exhaust wave from arriving back to the combustion chamber. When cam overlap is over, the valve re-opens. So there is a brief increase in backpressure at cam overlap only with the exhaust throttle valve and nowhere else along the engine cycle. The valve is activated and then disabled by the ECU which measures ignition timing to determine when cam overlap occurs and the potentiometer to determine the position or angle of the throttle valve itself.

[/IMG]
Figure 4. Honda Fireblade dyno using the H-VIX throttle valve. The blue hp/torque graphs labelled stock are with the exhaust throttle valve closed only at cam overlap and open at all other times. The red graphs are with the exhaust throttle valve open all the time...essentially like having no valve at all. The green graphs are with the exhaust throttle valve partially closed all the time: giving more backpressure all the time. Notice that adding backpressure kills power at the upper rpm powerband location. Having no throtttle valve weakens the lower rpm powerband location: the blue stock graph has more torque in the low-mid rpms than the red graph. You may see these applied to cars in the future.