PERFORMANCE MODIFICTION QUESTIONS ANSWERED HERE

charlieoneale33.jpg
 
Stinker said:
thats what I have noticed,

the one that sticks out is I had a 84 z28 we built the engine in, had 2 inch exhaust ran great, dropped in a 3 inch exhaust and it ran totally different, totally lost all bottom end compared to before


yeah i dont think a "built" 305 would like a 3" exhaust either:p
 
SRT-10 Truck Vs Viper Car Engine Accessories

Are the engine accessories the same... i.e. same serpentine belt? I see a good deal on a underdrive crank pulley with belt for the viper car.
 
C_Harris said:
Are the engine accessories the same... i.e. same serpentine belt? I see a good deal on a underdrive crank pulley with belt for the viper car.
viper cars use a different set up if not mistaken
 
Does synthetic tranny fluid smell different than standard fluid?:dontknow:

What kind of tranny fluid should I be using? :dontknow:

What does burnt tranny fluid smell like?
Metallic...?:dontknow:

I am going to do the Dodge "RE" Governor Solenoid to GM
Pressure Control Solenoid Conversion, aside from a rebuild (which I may need) - what else should be done as preventative mods?:confused:

Who is the transmission expert of the forum?

PS... If I beef up the tranny what are the chances of the rear end failing?
 
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C_Harris said:
Are the engine accessories the same... i.e. same serpentine belt? I see a good deal on a underdrive crank pulley with belt for the viper car.

as long as it is a gen 3 ,,,i have an under drive crank pully that came off a viper car with a gen 3 motor ,,fit perfect, belt is a mopar part number,,i dont know about all the stuff but i still run the underdrive pulley ,,,

in fact Taliban Dan put it on for me ,while we were B.S.ing at his shop in macon :D
 
The Itch said:
Does synthetic tranny fluid smell different than standard fluid?:dontknow:

What kind of tranny fluid should I be using? :dontknow:

What does burnt tranny fluid smell like?
Metallic...?:dontknow:

I am going to do the Dodge "RE" Governor Solenoid to GM
Pressure Control Solenoid Conversion, aside from a rebuild (which I may need) - what else should be done as preventative mods?:confused:

Who is the transmission expert of the forum?

PS... If I beef up the tranny what are the chances of the rear end failing?
with nos you tranny will go south, but the smell is no different
 
Stinker said:
with nos you tranny will go south, but the smell is no different

Is there a way to prolong the life or modify to avoid failure?
I'm taking in to one of the best racing transmission guys in the area when the kit gets here and I want him to help set up a stronger tranny - I also don't want to have my bank account raped...:eek:

Will my stock rear hold up to 600hp?:dontknow:
 
The Itch said:
Is there a way to prolong the life or modify to avoid failure?
I'm taking in to one of the best racing transmission guys in the area when the kit gets here and I want him to help set up a stronger tranny - I also don't want to have my bank account raped...:eek:

Will my stock rear hold up to 600hp?:dontknow:
let the guy take care of your tranny, but change the fluid often and keep the bands adjusted is my personal opinion.

but ge with NBT and have some spider gears cryoed, but with the auto i dont think you will have a prob with the rear axle right off
 
Stinker said:
Some very smart people in motorcycle racing at Yamaha developed an ingenious device called an exhaust throttle valve (actually Yamaha called their's an EXUP valve and were the first to use this idea; Honda called their's the H-VIX valve). These valves have are placed at the merge points of the header primaries. They are kept open and are continuous with the header. At cam overlap, the valve partially closes. This prevents both the intake air-fuel mix from shooting into the header (called overscavenging) and blocks any reflected exhaust wave from arriving back to the combustion chamber. When cam overlap is over, the valve re-opens. So there is a brief increase in backpressure at cam overlap only with the exhaust throttle valve and nowhere else along the engine cycle. The valve is activated and then disabled by the ECU which measures ignition timing to determine when cam overlap occurs and the potentiometer to determine the position or angle of the throttle valve itself.

exupdynos.jpg
[/IMG]
Figure 4. Honda Fireblade dyno using the H-VIX throttle valve. The blue hp/torque graphs labelled stock are with the exhaust throttle valve closed only at cam overlap and open at all other times. The red graphs are with the exhaust throttle valve open all the time...essentially like having no valve at all. The green graphs are with the exhaust throttle valve partially closed all the time: giving more backpressure all the time. Notice that adding backpressure kills power at the upper rpm powerband location. Having no throtttle valve weakens the lower rpm powerband location: the blue stock graph has more torque in the low-mid rpms than the red graph. You may see these applied to cars in the future.


That blocking reflected wave is also called Rarefaction and for those of us running primitive Viper engines and not Yamahas in our trucks (Stink) :D, you are relying on a correctly sized header tube diameter for this to work properly. Few things kick the crap out of low-end torque like headers that are too big for the application; especially at higher altitudes where velocity is at a premium.

So, the pressure wave leaves the cylinder and travels down the header tube to the collector. When the wave hits the collector it "bounces" back toward the cylinder and IF the primary header pipe diameter is correct, it helps to block and prevents over-scavenging during overlap. If it is too big, the wave will arrive too late (less velocity in a larger pipe) and over-scavenging can take place; and what should have been left in the cylinder for combustion leaves and goes out the exhaust, unburned (lost power).

Stink- As soon as you get some spare time, could you have some exhaust throttle valves built for our engines? ;)

Ronnie
 
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rottenronnie said:
That blocking reflected wave is also called Rarefaction and for those of us running primitive Viper engines and not Yamahas in our trucks (Stink) :D, you are relying on the correct size header tube diameter for this to work correctly. Few things kick the crap out of low-end torque like headers that are too big for the application; especially at higher altitudes where velocity is at a premium.

So, the pressure wave leaves the cylinder and heads to the collector, when the wave hits the collector it "bounces" back toward the cylinder and IF the primary header pipe diameter is correct, it helps to block and prevents over-scavenging. If it is too big, the wave will arrive too late (less velocity in a larger pipe) and over-scavenging can take place; and what should have been left in the cylinder for combustion leaves and goes out the exhaust, unburned (lost power).

Stink- As soon as you get some spare time, could you have some exhaust throttle valves built for our engines? ;)

Ronnie
how many you need?:)
 
Ironhead said:
as long as it is a gen 3 ,,,i have an under drive crank pully that came off a viper car with a gen 3 motor ,,fit perfect, belt is a mopar part number,,i dont know about all the stuff but i still run the underdrive pulley ,,,

in fact Taliban Dan put it on for me ,while we were B.S.ing at his shop in macon :D

That's what I thought... especially since ROE lists a replacement stock belt as fitting both car and truck. As long as the offset is the same its all good. Looks like I'll go ahead and get one. Thanks!
 
Ok, here's the deal, I have a low milage, 06 engine out of a qc. I know this has been gone over before but I can't find the info I'm looking for. So here's the question, what are the differences between qc and rc engines, and is there any way to make it work with the 6 speed?
 
linemup said:
Ok, here's the deal, I have a low milage, 06 engine out of a qc. I know this has been gone over before but I can't find the info I'm looking for. So here's the question, what are the differences between qc and rc engines, and is there any way to make it work with the 6 speed?
should be able to move the dowel pins and make it work
 
i gotta a question about what mod to do next.....I already have the Stage 2, exhaust and cai, with 2 cats removed....
I have a budget of only $500 (i know it's not much), but what is the next best bang for the buck mod I could do to get a little extra outta her?
 
kickinassrt-10 said:
i gotta a question about what mod to do next.....I already have the Stage 2, exhaust and cai, with 2 cats removed....
I have a budget of only $500 (i know it's not much), but what is the next best bang for the buck mod I could do to get a little extra outta her?


NOS!!!:rock:
 
eddie102870 said:
should be able to move the dowel pins and make it work


I hope you're right, but it seems like I remember someone saying the blocks were not the same, but that doesn't seem like something they would take the time to change just to put in an auto trans!?!:dontknow:
 

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