new parts to install

the slots on the pulley help bite the belt, i slotted a pulley on a pro charger that was slipping and picked up a half lb of boost. Gator back belts have lots of grooves for extra bite as well.
 
VPRPWRD said:
Once you get to meet srt2slow you will realize he is one of the good guys. He will help you with anything, all you have to do is ask. But don't let him stay at your place, he might try "stuff", if you know what I mean.......
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Lol!!! What kind of "stuff" Andy? You sound like you speak from experience. :)
 
Fixed the problem with the lowering blocks, pin was too long, cut it down and now works right
 

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Sits better now too, although I hope that the front drops a little more after the alignment
 

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Anyone know what the threaded holes in the bottom of the intake are for? ? Seems like a weird thing to do and then not use them for anything
 

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Idler roller was worn badly and since I was changing the belt and drive pulley I thought I would change it and the tensioner. Idler came off without a hitch (suprise!!!!) The tensioner not so good. I tried it on the truck and off, even put it in a vise, used PB blaster in case it was rusty inside, nojoy, put air impact to it both left and right in case it was threaded the other way, still nothing.

Any ideas? ??
 
I have no help for you on this.... Just wanted to say I feel your pain on most of the things you do. I am also one of those people that if it can go wrong, it will! When I get mixed up in one of these projects I often wonder if I really need to be doing this lol.

Good luck buddy and remember that chasing the goal is part of the 'fun'!
 
I found that those pins were too long as well when I lowered my truck. Just shaved them down and was good to go.

I am also curious about those threaded holes.

I cannot recall if mine had them or not.
 
NukeGM/Ford said:
Anyone know what the threaded holes in the bottom of the intake are for? ? Seems like a weird thing to do and then not use them for anything
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This is actually common on a lot of parts, sometimes used in manufacturing to hold pieces in place, etc.
 
NukeGM/Ford said:
ok, thanks, now about that tensioner bolt………..
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Do you mean the bolt to take tension off of the belt to remove it? This might be a dumb question and I mean no offense but are you trying to push the tensioner the correct direction?
 
No offense, I know I've been Fing my truck up, or so I've been told. ....

Got the tension off the belt, that is easy. Trying to replace the pulley on the tensioner. The idler was toast so I figured i would change the tensioner also. I can't get the bolt on the pulley for the tensioner to come loose at all. Parts store only sells pulley, not the tensioner itself
 
NukeGM/Ford said:
No offense, I know I've been Fing my truck up, or so I've been told. ....

Got the tension off the belt, that is easy. Trying to replace the pulley on the tensioner. The idler was toast so I figured i would change the tensioner also. I can't get the bolt on the pulley for the tensioner to come loose at all. Parts store only sells pulley, not the tensioner itself
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Good thing you didn't strip it! Reverse thread!
 
NukeGM/Ford said:
No offense, I know I've been Fing my truck up, or so I've been told. ....

Got the tension off the belt, that is easy. Trying to replace the pulley on the tensioner. The idler was toast so I figured i would change the tensioner also. I can't get the bolt on the pulley for the tensioner to come loose at all. Parts store only sells pulley, not the tensioner itself
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Why not just replace the whole tensioner or am I missing something? Roe sells them for about $89.
 
Engin89 said:
The bolt should be marked to indicate reverse thread.
Some have an CC arrow imprinted on the bolt head...
______
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Universal bolt marking for reverse thread is notched corners on face of bolt.
It IS absolutely reverse threaded. Had many guys have to but a tensioner by stripping threads while breaking loose wrong way ;):rofl:
 
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