Kicked A Rod

[HaulinAsp]

Major kudo's to you for doing it yourself!! Any ideas of the plans you have once you get another motor?

If I can locate something that is not outrageous in price, then forged rods and pistons will be the only option over the hypetectic pistons and powdered metal forged cracked cap rods.......

I have had thoughts of slamming a common rail diesel in there as a last resort LOL

 

[rottenronnie]

Just about ready to yank, removed the alt, ps pump thermostat housing off the front of the engine.....

IF or before you pull the main big "timing chain" cover, you have to drop the pan and unbolt the oil pickup along the bottom of the block and then remove it from the bottom of the timing chain cover at the very front. The design has changed over the earlier versions of this engine and more than a few guys have wrecked the covers thinking they were the same.
The manual says to remove the crossmember and drop the pan but the xmember is also welded. You can however get the engine up high enough to drop the pan by taking the motor mounts off and raising it up a bit.
I did the Striker and cam install myself and went through all this last winter. Yeah, aren't all those rads and fan a treat!

 

[HaulinAsp]

Yeah this has been major fun (sarcastic) I can have the engine from my 64 Fury, up and on the engine stand in roughly 2hours or less, this deal here seems like forever....................

 

[HaulinAsp]

IF or before you pull the main big "timing chain" cover, you have to drop the pan and unbolt the oil pickup along the bottom of the block and then remove it from the bottom of the timing chain cover at the very front. The design has changed over the earlier versions of this engine and more than a few guys have wrecked the covers thinking they were the same.
The manual says to remove the crossmember and drop the pan but the xmember is also welded. You can however get the engine up high enough to drop the pan by taking the motor mounts off and raising it up a bit.
I did the Striker and cam install myself and went through all this last winter. Yeah, aren't all those rads and fan a treat!

Thanks for the info Ronnie. I don't have the repair manual, I am going on my wrenching skills, I spied out the oilpan clearance and know it has to be removed first. I also spied the bolts retaining the timing cover from the oilpan rail. Ma Mopar did the same on all big blocks and small blocks for years so I knew what to look for there....

Any advise is welcomed. Thanks.

 

[pirateman]

yes it did. i have noticed this is common

 

[supercar1of1]

2004 SRT-10 Reg Cab (fastest color BLACK)#2801- # 3 Connecting Rod went Buh-Bye!

What is the deal with all these #3 piston/rod problems?

If it were random it would be one thing, but this kind of looks to me
like a design flaw where Dodge might need to step up to the plate.

The stock Ford rods/pistons are Mickey Mouse looking compared with
the Viper parts but are surviving some serious power levels.(and I am talking
about the regular powdered metal 5.4 stuff)

Anybody else notice this?

 

[TREKER]

This whole thing makes me sick... Sorry you have to deal with this bro...

I give you tremendous credit for attacking the issue like you are. But I think they may just find you asleep in the engine bay soon. :goodnight:

 

[rottenronnie]

Thanks for the info Ronnie. I don't have the repair manual, I am going on my wrenching skills, I spied out the oilpan clearance and know it has to be removed first. I also spied the bolts retaining the timing cover from the oilpan rail. Ma Mopar did the same on all big blocks and small blocks for years so I knew what to look for there....

Any advise is welcomed. Thanks.

Keep in mind the Viper engine is NOT like the older BB (with an external oil pump) or SB Dodges (with the pump inside the pan) in this regard. I have worked on a lot of those older engines.
The end of the pickup tube on these engines, enters the bottom of the timing chain cover at 90 degrees, where it is a press fit, o-ring attachment. That is what I meant when I said the tube has to come off of the block before the cover can be removed. The pump itself is part of the cover.

Just thought I'd try and make that clear(er). Those covers aren't cheap!

Good luck,
Ron

 

[Slitherbeast]

When you take the heads off would you please post a picture of the combustion chamber . I am curious if there was antifreeze in the cylinder prior to it failing.

 

[HaulinAsp]

When you take the heads off would you please post a picture of the combustion chamber . I am curious if there was antifreeze in the cylinder prior to it failing.

Don't worry when I swing this sucka out I will have full pics as I have been posting. :marchmellow:

 

[HaulinAsp]

I wish Stink would get off his hiney and get us specifics on this 522 shorty block with forged internals.... I have been getting prices on engines and some have been downright scary in price- for stock replacement- i.e. same junk ass connecting rods that went boom......:argh:

 

[Prof]

Have you considered fixing the block rather than going to a new engine?

 

[HaulinAsp]

Have you considered fixing the block rather than going to a new engine?

I don't know the extent of the interrnal damage yet.... Plus I don't know of a competent place to repair aluminum blocks in my area.

 

[FastRam]

I would say it has alot to do with how its treated Paper clip analogy

I agree on this concept -- duty cycle, could be a contributing failure factor :dontknow: I wonder what percentile (or durability benchmark) the V10 engines are deisgned to. I do know the 5.7/6.1 Hemis were built to the 95th percentile for 150K miles. This is the duarability test cycle Chrysler used during development of the Hemi: 150,000 customer equivelant miles driven at the 95 percentile, meaning that only 5 percent of owners are more abusive than factory testing. V10 equivalency? :dontknow:

 

[Prof]

I don't know the extent of the interrnal damage yet.... Plus I don't know of a competent place to repair aluminum blocks in my area.

Consider the option. Repairing the block is not rocket science...especially with the sleeved cylinders.

At least get a cost comparison...if you put it back stock...due to financial constraints...it could be the least expensive route by a long shot.

 

[HaulinAsp]

Consider the option. Repairing the block is not rocket science...especially with the sleeved cylinders.

At least get a cost comparison...if you put it back stock...due to financial constraints...it could be the least expensive route by a long shot.

Yes this is true but I don't want to have the very same issues down the road. I hope to find a good core(no windows) or atleast a clean short block. And go from there.

After getting some prices just for a stock replacement it makes sense to take advantage of this 522 that Stinker is working to bring us.

If all else fails I may build this bitch into the worlds first 700 hp Common Rail Cummins SRT/Ram..... :rock:

 

[Prof]

What a great project that would be!

I can see and smell the black smoke already!

 

[HaulinAsp]

Obviously the T56 would never survive- can it be upgraded for a diesel?

 

[Dave T(BADVENM)]

Consider the option. Repairing the block is not rocket science...especially with the sleeved cylinders.

At least get a cost comparison...if you put it back stock...due to financial constraints...it could be the least expensive route by a long shot.

Where would you suggest we (since I also have a busted block) take the motors to? I posed this question quite some time ago with no response or knowledge of a shop that could do it. I even talked to an NHRA place that was suggested to me with no answer.

 

[HaulinAsp]

Obviously this place needs a submerging tank. I know they want to submerge the block in a cool fluid and keep the portion to be welded not submerged. This is a key process to keep distortion from the welding down to a minimum.....

Problem is try finding a place with these capabilities local.