loud engine clunk @ startup

jsandlin said:
Man I really appreciate all yhe help I have received here from you guys. I now am nor sure if I should drop the tranny or try and turn the crank or call my insurance company (allstate). It just amazes me that I started the truck around lunch (after trying to determine where a squealing noise was coming from on my serpentine belt) with no problem to come out after work to a fukd truck. It was raining all during work but man it was like 12 - 16 ozs of water in the black intake tube
If You didn't find any water in the oil i would set that idea to the side for now and focus on the trans.

That squeal you were hearing are you sure it wasn't metal to metal that could of been something getting really hot and when you shut it down it bonded together?

Whats everybody think about this ?

With all the broke bolts and cracked housing he found on this clutch install wouldn't it be likely that it was from something out of alignment. I am guessing with the new install all bolts replaced what ever was not aligned finally gave out.:dontknow:

Simple and easy would be the housing finally cracked all of the way through and a chunk has wedged itself into the clutch not allowing the starter to turn it over. Every thing else seems points to crank or input shaft?

Hate to see the truck go down out of five top end runs its the only 10 to pull on me.
 
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scoobert said:
is there a hole in the tube? was it lose from the TB?
I was also curious how water got into the tube if the truck was sitting (moving I understand) and scoob your reasoning of having a loose coupling on the intake tube where it meets throttle body makes sense. Maybe clamp wasn't super tight and water poured down the hood vent and eased it's way into the intake tube, then on start up some small amount got sucked in and that equals bye bye engine!
Sorry for the headache you have to deal with jsandlin...I know when my truck acts funny I'm like damn what is it now and what's it's gonna set me back now :(
 
i dunno why there has to be all this speculation,his #6 cylinder is toast,the only reason a spark plug gap closes is because the piston is coming apart ,i have been through this so has a few other members.

pull the heads ,your engine is toast,see if you have a warranty left ,if not ,then save your money and send it to a builder.

if you're still skepticle,pull your number 6 spark plug and put a magnet inside ,you'll find metal on that magnet

plug gapping wouldnt cause your piston to close the gap only the wrong size plug would,all your cylinders would have had the samething happen to them if that was the case
 
flchub said:
i dunno why there has to be all this speculation,his #6 cylinder is toast,the only reason a spark plug gap closes is because the piston is coming apart ,i have been through this so has a few other members.

pull the heads ,your engine is toast,see if you have a warranty left ,if not ,then save your money and send it to a builder.

if you're still skepticle,pull your number 6 spark plug and put a magnet inside ,you'll find metal on that magnet


plug gapping wouldnt cause your piston to close the gap only the wrong size plug would,all your cylinders would have had the samething happen to them if that was the case

aluminum is non-ferrous and would not stick to a magnet. unless your saying the liner or the rings are coming apart?
 
wow..15 pages, 145 posts, and 26 different theories, and we still dont know the exact cause..
Hoping for the best for you dude..

As someone stated, the most recent work done is where you should start..
The hydrolocked theory is interesting..never heard of it..
The bent electrode is not a good thing...
It sounds like you have a couple differnt issues..brokenbellhousinghydrolockedmotorbentelectrode syndrome is pretty difficult to diagnose..
Its easy to say pull the motor and ship it off, or rebuild it..good luck with whatever you decide to do, or not do..
 
if its not the transmission i would rebuild it. but better stronger, we have the technology, do you have the money? lol sounds like a good excuse if ya ask me.
 
Looks like I'm going to take off the tranny today and will let you guys know. Your right it is a good excuse to build if in fact my engine is fukd. Trouble is I just found out my girl in pregnant and looks like I know where most of my bonus is going. Just lucky its not my daily driver but seeing my truck parked again and nit driveable just sucks. Thanks again for all the support
 
jsandlin said:
Looks like I'm going to take off the tranny today and will let you guys know. Your right it is a good excuse to build if in fact my engine is fukd. Trouble is I just found out my girl in pregnant and looks like I know where most of my bonus is going. Just lucky its not my daily driver but seeing my truck parked again and nit driveable just sucks. Thanks again for all the support

you will be on here soon looking for a QC....
 
scoobert said:
you will be on here soon looking for a QC....
ABout the smartest thing you've said since you joined this forum.:rock: :rock: :D
 
jsandlin said:
Man I really appreciate all yhe help I have received here from you guys. I now am nor sure if I should drop the tranny or try and turn the crank or call my insurance company (allstate). It just amazes me that I started the truck around lunch (after trying to determine where a squealing noise was coming from on my serpentine belt) with no problem to come out after work to a fukd truck. It was raining all during work but man it was like 12 - 16 ozs of water in the black intake tube



Riff62 said:
wow..15 pages, 145 posts, and 26 different theories, and we still dont know the exact cause..
Hoping for the best for you dude..

As someone stated, the most recent work done is where you should start..
The hydrolocked theory is interesting..never heard of it..
The bent electrode is not a good thing...
It sounds like you have a couple differnt issues..brokenbellhousinghydrolockedmotorbentelectrode syndrome is pretty difficult to diagnose..
Its easy to say pull the motor and ship it off, or rebuild it..good luck with whatever you decide to do, or not do..

Striker heads show: Combustion chamber range from 58cc to 82cc maximum.

That is just the heads, a bit more total CC's installed I would suppose.

Let's see then .....

1 fluid ounce = 29.6 cc = 6 teaspoons = 2 tablespoons = 1/8 cup

So even if we double the recipe (max) 82 cc's (164 cc) then we have:

164cc divided by 29.6 cc (1 fluid ounce) = 5.54 ounces or 33.24 teaspoons

full or 11.08 tablespoons full or 0.6931874661202645 cups :D :D :D

So it looks like it would not take a lot of water to lock an engine up :eek:


From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A shorthand notation for either hydraulic lock or hydrostatic lock is an abnormal condition of an internal combustion engine in which an incompressible liquid, commonly water, has been introduced into one or more cylinders, causing immobilization or damage. Hydrolock can occur because an internal combustion engine must compress a volume of gas in order to operate, while most common liquids that could enter an internal combustion engine do not compress. If liquid is introduced at a volume greater than the volume of the combustion chamber at its minimum (top of the piston's stroke), the piston cannot complete its travel. Either the engine must stop rotating or a mechanical failure will occur.

Hydrolock is relatively common when driving through floods, either where the water is above the level of the air intake or the vehicle's speed is excessive, creating a tall bow wave. A vehicle fitted with a Cold air intake mounted low on the vehicle will be especially vulnerable to hydrolocking when being driven through standing water or heavy precipitation.

Another cause can include a head gasket failure, which may allow the radiator coolant to leak into the combustion chamber.

Fuel entering one or more cylinders in liquid form due to carburetor flooding or other abnormal operating conditions can cause an engine to hydrolock, although this is relatively rare.

Small boats with outboard engines and PWCs tend to ingest water simply because they run in and around it. During a rollover or when a wave washes over the craft its engine can hydrolock, though severe damage is rare due to the special air intakes and low inertia of small marine engines
 
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Wifey said:
[/B]




Striker heads show: Combustion chamber range from 58cc to 82cc maximum.

That is just the heads, a bit more total CC's installed I would suppose.

Let's see then .....

1 fluid ounce = 29.6 cc = 6 teaspoons = 2 tablespoons = 1/8 cup

So even if we double the recipe (max) 82 cc's (164 cc) then we have:

164cc divided by 29.6 cc (1 fluid ounce) = 5.54 ounces or 33.24 teaspoons

full or 11.08 tablespoons full or 0.6931874661202645 cups :D :D :D

So it looks like it would not take a lot of water to lock an engine up :eek:
WTF? Oh wait I see 69 so its all good.
 
viperhauler said:
and i thought i was good at math....
And I only made it to 4th grade math :D :rock: :p
 
viperhauler said:
damn SC school systems:D
I know, it's terrible since their main subject seems to be beastiality and incest - hehehehe ask Stinker he musta graduated from both :p :p ;) :D :elefant:
 

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